Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Header Temperatures
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    mrrilla's Avatar
    mrrilla is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Vail
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1939 Chevy Coupe
    Posts
    32

    Header Temperatures

     



    I am just got done breaking in my new motor which is a 383 Tuned Port Injection. All the sensor data looked good, A/F ratio was right at 14.7 and water temp was around 200F.

    At about minute 15 my stainless block hugger headers started changing color. At minute 20 at 2000 rpm, the headers were glowing red. I took a infrared thermometer to them and they were all within 15 degrees, around 375F.

    My question.....What range are these headers supposed to be running at? Makes me think the motor is running lean but the 02 sensor says everything is good.

    Any suggestions or comments?

  2. #2
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    so.cal
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
    Posts
    1,942

    Thats what happens when you break a engine in,the headers should have came with a warning not to use them on breaking in ,because of discoloration.All the ceramic coated headers say do not use for break in because of the high temps associated with this procedure will discolor the finish,not sure about stainless?
    Cherry red glow is good ,white hot is not
    I have no answer on the lean condition.........might want to check the plugs for that.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  3. #3
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eston
    Posts
    2,270

    Check the timing. Retarded spark will cause hot headers. 2000 rpm under no load shouldn't make that much heat.

  4. #4
    mrrilla's Avatar
    mrrilla is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Vail
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1939 Chevy Coupe
    Posts
    32

    the mechanical timing was set at 8 BTDC. After letting the ECM take control, the timing goes to 23 at idle and 32 at 2000rpm. Right where it should be so the timing is fine.

    The glowing headers are my concern. Does 375F sound too hot? Any oil drip onto those headers will catch fire which is bad.

  5. #5
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by mrrilla
    I am just got done breaking in my new motor which is a 383 Tuned Port Injection. All the sensor data looked good, A/F ratio was right at 14.7 and water temp was around 200F.

    At about minute 15 my stainless block hugger headers started changing color. At minute 20 at 2000 rpm, the headers were glowing red. I took a infrared thermometer to them and they were all within 15 degrees, around 375F.

    My question.....What range are these headers supposed to be running at? Makes me think the motor is running lean but the 02 sensor says everything is good.

    Any suggestions or comments?
    In the old days before the A/F gauges where out there we use to run about 1,350 F right at the head where the exhaust bolts to the head it's self for circle track applications.
    1,450F for drag engines.
    I forgot to add this temp. is for good pistons like a JE and I would not recommend these temps. with a set of $100 hyper's.
    Last edited by erik erikson; 05-08-2007 at 04:59 PM.

  6. #6
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    so.cal
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
    Posts
    1,942

    Quote Originally Posted by mrrilla
    the mechanical timing was set at 8 BTDC. After letting the ECM take control, the timing goes to 23 at idle and 32 at 2000rpm. Right where it should be so the timing is fine.

    The glowing headers are my concern. Does 375F sound too hot? Any oil drip onto those headers will catch fire which is bad.
    Yes there will be fire if you spill oil on headers
    I think you will know if you get a over heating problem and by plug color.
    I used to have a chart,dull red 500approx, cherry red 6 or 700,orange is 900 approx and white hot is approx 11 to 1200 degrees. I am sure those temps are far from correct ,but you get the idea.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  7. #7
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Prattsville
    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
    Posts
    4,990

    manifold temp has to be at least 500* ( and 650* to be accurate ) for an O2 sensor to run in closed loop, so it's gotta be hotter than that under break in?
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  8. #8
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    a true S steel move heat better then carbon steel colors of cabon steel are blue is about 600 and red go,s from f750 faint red
    blood red f 1050
    dark red f1075
    med cherryf1275
    orangef1725
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 05-08-2007 at 07:18 PM.

  9. #9
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167
    manifold temp has to be at least 500* ( and 650* to be accurate ) for an O2 sensor to run in closed loop, so it's gotta be hotter than that under break in?
    Think he's talking the external temp of the metal, not the temp of the exhaust gas, Matt.....

    IMO, 375 for ceramic coated or stainless headers is a bit high... With an ECM, probably not a heck of a lot you can do about it though... Sounds like you're going to have some blued headers..... Might as well get some header wrap, the high underhood temps won't be doing anything good for the performance of the engine.....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  10. #10
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    so.cal
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
    Posts
    1,942

    I know alot of the F.I. stuff runs alot hotter exaust temps than a carbed ride,.......emissions I guess?Trying to burn all the unused fuel there in the exaust manifold?
    Sounds like normal breakin glow to me on the glowing at 20 mins ...whats the temp at idle?
    My rams horns were dull red{with carb} in the thin spots after break in and I stoped once in the middle to get a air pocket out of the engine and to let the" almost " fire with the high heat paint cool off.
    Last edited by shawnlee28; 05-08-2007 at 11:33 PM.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  11. #11
    thesals's Avatar
    thesals is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    san diego
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 mustangFB, 69 econline Drag Van
    Posts
    1,527

    sounds like everything is ok to me, that is breakin.... since your headers are now blued anyways might as well buy some jet hot and ceramic coat them so at least the high temps wont be coming through as much.....
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

  12. #12
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,176

    Running rich will make your headers glow, too. When you run the engine at high rpm, no load (such as during break-in), you carry a lot of heat over into the exhaust as well.

  13. #13
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
    Running rich will make your headers glow, too. When you run the engine at high rpm, no load (such as during break-in), you carry a lot of heat over into the exhaust as well.
    Hi rpm "such as during break-in"???
    I think what people are doing here is confusing E.G.T. with external temps.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink