Thread: Who to listen to?

Tweet

Okay, have my new heads! Now, some rookie ? to ask so I can try to get things done this weekend.
According to ARP I should use only their moly lube on on their head bolts. Is that absolutely all I can use or will just a good quality lube and thread sealer be allright? Also, they advise tourqing the bolts to 60 ft./lb with ARP lube but up to 85 ft./lb with 30w motor oil? Just who's torque settings should I go by? This is a sbc 350 - 1973 block- and are putting on new Dart Iron Eagle heads.
Gaskets are Mr. Gasket ultra-seal part # mrg-5800- should I use any sealer on them or install them dry? Thanks for any and all advice y'all can give my upgrading project.

I would follow ARP directions to the letter and use their lube.you shouldn't have to put any sort of sealant on the head gaskets either.

The moly lube lowers friction so you do not need as much torque. Any holes penetrating the water gallery will need to be sealed, usually with teflon pipe sealant. If you want the most accurate results on bolt seating at a given torque then break in the (new) bolts first. If the block is new use the block threads, otherwise make a threaded block and torque the bolts into that (with lube, making sure the bolt heads seat) a couple times to precondition the threads.

On GM crate engines the directions say to use oil for lube.

Kitz

I'm with Kitz, a good quality lube and pipe sealant. ARP would sure like to sell you that little bottle of oil though!!!

I agree, I just did mine a few months ago and used super lube on the threads. Obviously, you will want to run a bottoming tap down into each and every hole first and clean them out really well. Only a couple of the bolts go into water passages and need sealant.

Don

Thanks for your input, folks. Really appreciate it and so it seems that a good moly lube (probably ARP's) and some thread sealer along with torque spec's by ARP guidelines with the gaskets installed dry should get me where I need to be with the heads. Reckon it's about time to get to wrenchin' but getting wrapped around some pork chops is gonna come first! Will let you know later how things turn out! Chow time!

Finally! My heads arrived and now reside on my motor My next ? on this subject is when should I re-torque the head bolts? Everything seems to be working pretty good- no leaks, whistles, hisses or strange happenings so far after two days with maybe 20 miles drive distance and about 30 min. run time sitting in drive adjusting idle and timing. After getting vac. gauge the best reading I could get was 17 in. at 850 rpm idling in park. This all right with a mild cam ( 204-214 dur. and .420-.442 lift)? Am running 1.6 rockers so that is bumped up some. Anyway, have Mr. Gasket ultra-seal gaskets but I should probably re-torque anyway? I know this is basics for a lot of you but not real routine to me. Thanks for any feedback from the more enlightened

I don't believe any of the new gaskets require a retorque, but I always do anyway.... I usually set the torque wrench for a couple pounds less then the torque setting on the bolts, long as the wrench clicks everythings fine. I just figure it's good insurance with all the $$$$ spent on parts and labor. I like insurance!!!!!