Thread: working on dads car, valve train problem.

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Well the parts are in, heads are at the machine shop getting new valve guides and trued .010. You'll never guess what i found when i pulled the motor apart. my dads motor had sat all winter last year and when we had started it up in the spring after all the snow melted it had a ticking in the valve train i had pulled off all the valve covers and checked the rocker arms whiched checked out ok but lead me to believe it was a failed lifter. well as of yesterday i started pulling out the lifters out of the bores and found 4 bad lifters and 4 bad cam lobes it ate away at itself so we now have $130.00 of scrap but investagating what went wrong and come to find out my dad had put Mobil one 10W30 synthetic in it which made the lifters not rotate cause its to slipery. while reading the new cam instructions its not safe to put synthetic in until after 5000 miles and dad had about 500 to 1000 miles on his. but dads new parts he got are,
Crane enegizer cam 1500 - 5500rpm 272Dur 216@.050 110deg lob sep 454/454 lift
crane cam enegizer roller rockers 1.5 ratio
shift light & Tach
MSD hei module with rev limiter
Well second times a charm and after making dad read the cam instructions and warnings and break in, he now knows and understands and won't be running synthetic till after 5000 miles

Originally Posted by DennyW

Well, that sure is a hard way to learn about the oils. But, in respect for your dad, that is the way some things are learned. The hard way. But those are the ones you won't forget. I have a few myself from my earlier days. I have never forgot them.

yeah I hear ya on the trial and error. We have all the parts and we're on a stand still till we get the heads back from the machine shop. Well as far as the oils go his motor was all together and i broke in the cam to the directions specs changed the oil and told my dad he had to change the oil after 500 miles well thats when he put the synthetic in oops

well the heads came in yesterday and i worked on dads motor putting it back together from 3pm - 10pm the machine shop put in all 16 valve guides and 1 seat on his 882 heads and trued them up .010 got all the old gaskets scraped and cleaned off torqued the heads on installed the new crane roller rockers set the valve lash at 0 then 1 turn down set the lock screws bolted on the intake (used Denny's advise about dropping in the distributor in with the crank and cam dots at 12 o clock with the rotor pointing to #1) bolted on the new tall crome valve covers bolted on the timing chain cover and installed the harmonic balancer and waterpump now i get to put all the A/C brackets and others back on and the pulleys and drop her back into her home

I'd stop right where ya are...... what about all the metal from the failed lifters & cam ???? The engine needs to come apart and be cleaned along with new bearings...

What he said. If you don't you run the risk of more parts getting toasted.


Don

eeeeeeeeeeeeeekkkkkk

i was worried about that but you really think i need to tear it all down?? that would suck wouldn't it get filtered out with the oil filter????

NO. I know that is not what you want to hear, but in the long run it'll pay dividends.

Originally Posted by speedy55779

i was worried about that but you really think i need to tear it all down?? that would suck wouldn't it get filtered out with the oil filter????

Man I know it sucks to be you right now,but the fact is you now have very fine ground up metal circulating throughout the oil system and embedded in all the bearings.Only cure is total tear down,a set of engine brushes,Hot Hot soapy water and compressed air. and all new bearings. And have the crank polished.
Also when ya put it back together use lots of cam lube, Rotella diesel oil. and a can of G.M. EOS for cam break in. There is a very good thread on here about cam break in. Also if your running double valve springs it's a good idea to take the inner springs out while your doing the cam break in.

. At about 75K most all SB Chevy cams are flat . Dump two cans engine flush in the valley. Drain the oil the metal will be in the bottom of the oil pan . Run that engine for a short time and change the oil and filter again . That engine will be fine .

like hworrell said it should come all down for a good wash and re bearing cam mains rods and maybe a lite hone and re ring would have to do with how many lobes were ground off all that trash plays hell on the bores and the junk gets nail into the piston shirts same with the mains rods and cam bearings so a crank polish to but thats is up to you .this is the right way but there are other ways to .when i build something may go abit over kill but who wants come backs??