Thread: rocker arm studs

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i recently took some heads in to get valves and springs installed and since this is a freshen up of newer heads and the machine shop didnt have my set up he didnt order my rocker arm studs he said he didnt want to order me the wrong ones. so how do i know what one i need? they are dart heads with a solid roller cam i dont know what info will help but i need to get this show ready for the road before snow melts. i do know i need 3/8 studs but what length. i never knew this mattered until the machine guy brought this up

Go to www.dartheads.com tell them what type of rocker arms you want to run with the 3/8s studs . And I am sure you will run guide plates . They will tell you what size to buy . COOL

You would use the longer studs if you are planning to run a stud girdle... ARP lists them for with or without a girdle.... I'd also suggest the shouldered studs with a nut built into them so they can be properly sealed, installed, and torqued....

dave these are the one that summit has but looking at arp site they do not say they are for girdles so lets say one day i wanted to get them. do i need them? this piticular setup will not see over7500 rpm the longer of the two are for roller rockers which i do have so if i dont need girdles i should just get the longer ones?
http://store.summitracing.com/compar...4294867153+115

I think I'd go ahead and get the longer ones, never know, you might change your mind later and want the girdles. I like to run the stud girdles because they do absorb some of the load from the stud resulting from high valve spring pressures.... Heck, even my SBF ones usually run less then a hundred bucks, I would imagine you could pick up a set for and SBC used for 50 bucks or less. Doubt brand new the chebbie ones are too much. Just cheap insurance IMO....

The cheaper ones for a stock head sbc are only about $75 with poly-locks.

Get the long ones .....you will need tall valve covers anyway for that girdle.