Thread: Engine Break In Advise
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02-04-2008 08:12 PM #16
Thanks for the info DanB. I appreciate it.
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02-04-2008 08:35 PM #17
My vote goes to what Dan said, it's worked good for me!!!! Big thing is the quality of the hone and finish on the cylinders. If it's not done correctly, it will not break in quickly or ever seal effectively.....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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02-04-2008 09:06 PM #18
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
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02-05-2008 06:08 AM #19
Originally Posted by DennyW
I have got plenty of snot here you can use some of mine.
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02-05-2008 10:41 AM #20
Originally Posted by DennyW
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02-05-2008 10:48 AM #21
Originally Posted by DennyW
I can't remember.
Something about snot on a glass door knob???
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02-05-2008 11:01 AM #22
Originally Posted by DennyW
I have one "snot always rises to the top",No wait ,I think that is creme.
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02-05-2008 12:27 PM #23
iv`e never had an engine not turn out good regardless of what i did or used for the break-in period .. if something failed it`s snot cause the bugger was`nt lubed right .. i either had the cam in bassackards or the heads screwed on upside down or the battery in wrong ..iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?
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02-05-2008 01:36 PM #24
Hoss man of many faces, Tonto!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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02-05-2008 03:43 PM #25
Originally Posted by stovens
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02-05-2008 04:49 PM #26
is that red skelton? :HMM:
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02-06-2008 03:55 PM #27
I wonder why a new car doesn't need the engine broken in but a rebuilt does? What about a crate engine, does it need a brake-in or not?1951 Chevy 3600 Long Box
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02-06-2008 11:29 PM #28
Originally Posted by DennyW
Originally Posted by erik eriksonLast edited by MT79; 02-06-2008 at 11:32 PM.
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02-07-2008 10:15 AM #29
Speaking of no money to replace any snot, some snot went crazy on a used water pump last night and bid over 90 dollars for it. It was an unpolished used Weiand, aluminium, with some miles on it and visable rust stains. I thought it was mine until the last three minutes, I bid up to 88, and let it go, new about 168. Can't quite afford new but won't pay 90 plus shipping and handling for a used water pump!
I know this is the engine breakin thread, but a broken in water pump for 100+ isn't in my budget!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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02-07-2008 07:10 PM #30
You seem to have the right advice about running 1500-2000 RPM. The purpose is to break in the cam and flat tappet lifters. You want to watch the oil pressure guage because of the all the assembly goop clogging up the filter. Don't worry about the timing yet. Change the oil and filter and then check the timing. Then, I just drive until I feel confident that all is well and then I nail it.
NOW, PAY ATTENTION! It is very important that you know that conventional motor oil can no longer properly lubricate a flat tappet camshaft. Go to compcams.com and read their bulletin about flat tappet cam failures. You will need an additive if you expect your cam to have a long life. It seems that some type of assembly lube is the answer but I would sure like to hear from an oil company with a definitive answer. Fat chance of that. GM EOS may be the answer. Valvoline sells a 'not street legal' racing oil that may be a solution.
Enjoy your new motor.
Ok gang. It's been awhile. With everything that was going on taking care of my mom's affairs and making a few needed mods to the Healey, it was June before anything really got rolling on this...
My Little Red Muscle Truck