Thread: Engine Break In Advise

Tweet

Thanks for the info DanB. I appreciate it.

My vote goes to what Dan said, it's worked good for me!!!! Big thing is the quality of the hone and finish on the cylinders. If it's not done correctly, it will not break in quickly or ever seal effectively.....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

My vote goes to what Dan said, it's worked good for me!!!!

Alright! That's two votes. Thanks Dave.

Originally Posted by DennyW

But what if you are all out of snot ....???

Hey,Denny.
I have got plenty of snot here you can use some of mine.

Originally Posted by DennyW

That must be when you hear someone say.......

Look at that little Bugger go man.....

That is "slicker than snot".

Originally Posted by DennyW

Ah...he's just a snot nosed kid....

You win.
I can't remember.
Something about snot on a glass door knob???

iv`e never had an engine not turn out good regardless of what i did or used for the break-in period .. if something failed it`s snot cause the bugger was`nt lubed right .. i either had the cam in bassackards or the heads screwed on upside down or the battery in wrong ..

Hoss man of many faces, Tonto!

Originally Posted by stovens

Hoss man of many faces, Tonto!

Who are you calling Tonto!!!

is that red skelton? :HMM:

I wonder why a new car doesn't need the engine broken in but a rebuilt does? What about a crate engine, does it need a brake-in or not?

Originally Posted by DennyW

But what if you are all out of snot ....???

Originally Posted by erik erikson

Hey,Denny.
I have got plenty of snot here you can use some of mine.

I just don't have the cash to replace any snot I beat out of the engine right now Let alone the amount of money I've already contributed to my state due to my driving habits in the past

Speaking of no money to replace any snot, some snot went crazy on a used water pump last night and bid over 90 dollars for it. It was an unpolished used Weiand, aluminium, with some miles on it and visable rust stains. I thought it was mine until the last three minutes, I bid up to 88, and let it go, new about 168. Can't quite afford new but won't pay 90 plus shipping and handling for a used water pump!
I know this is the engine breakin thread, but a broken in water pump for 100+ isn't in my budget!

You seem to have the right advice about running 1500-2000 RPM. The purpose is to break in the cam and flat tappet lifters. You want to watch the oil pressure guage because of the all the assembly goop clogging up the filter. Don't worry about the timing yet. Change the oil and filter and then check the timing. Then, I just drive until I feel confident that all is well and then I nail it.

NOW, PAY ATTENTION! It is very important that you know that conventional motor oil can no longer properly lubricate a flat tappet camshaft. Go to compcams.com and read their bulletin about flat tappet cam failures. You will need an additive if you expect your cam to have a long life. It seems that some type of assembly lube is the answer but I would sure like to hear from an oil company with a definitive answer. Fat chance of that. GM EOS may be the answer. Valvoline sells a 'not street legal' racing oil that may be a solution.

Enjoy your new motor.

Thanks Selmorides. Alright, I think I understand the zinc issue w/ new oils after some google searches. I had never thought new oils posed such a problem to older, flat tappet cam engines. Seems pretty widely accepted these new oils that are low in ZDDP can cause premature failure.
From what I read some race oils are high in zinc. Diesel oils like Rotella and Delo may have lowered their zinc levels in mid 2007.

I'll probably use the Lucas break in additive. Anyone not like this product for any reason? Ever use it?

One more question:
When seating the rings under a load first time out in the car, how hard on the gas should I be? I'd imagine you don't want to floor it, but more like 1/2-3/4 way to the floor?

Thanks again everybody.