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Thread: Engine Break-In Oil/Procedures
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    PLANETGETLOW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Engine Break-In Oil/Procedures

     



    I didn't notice any stickies that outline this so I thought I'd ask here.

    I have a rebuilt 283 (stock w/mild cam) that has only a small bit of idle time on it.

    What type of oil should I use? For how long and when to change?

    How should I run the engine? Idle......between certain speeds?

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    PLANETGETLOW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks, checking those now.....

  3. #3
    PLANETGETLOW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Well I looked through those and I guess the best advice I saw was any cheap 30wt oil and add a zinc additive.

    Nothing was said about a non-detergent oil?

    What's the speculation about non-detergent oil and why do some recommend it?

  4. #4
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i use rotella oil in new motors. or you really need an additive on the first fire up. the first 3 min of life has a lot to do with how long a motor lives. i have witnessed a new cam failing in less than 1k miles with only penzoil 10w30.

  5. #5
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLANETGETLOW
    Nothing was said about a non-detergent oil?

    What's the speculation about non-detergent oil and why do some recommend it?
    No speculation about it..........there's is absolutely no factual basis for using it in a gasoline engine. Great for air compressors, not motor vehicles. The term "non-detergent" is somewhat of a misnomer. So called "non-detergent" oils also don't contain any other additives (except possibly anti-rust or anti-oxidation), most critical being the anti-wear additive to protect the cam shaft.

    Hopefully your comment about "small bit of idle time" is not completely accurate. If you didn't do a camshaft breakin you might be in for a surprise.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

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  6. #6
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLANETGETLOW
    I didn't notice any stickies that outline this so I thought I'd ask here.

    I have a rebuilt 283 (stock w/mild cam) that has only a small bit of idle time on it.

    What type of oil should I use? For how long and when to change?

    How should I run the engine? Idle......between certain speeds?

    Thanks in advance
    I would run either GM EOS or Crane cam break in additive.

  7. #7
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Use Crane 99003-1. GM has discontinued their EOS.

  8. #8
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1
    Use Crane 99003-1. GM has discontinued their EOS.
    Richard,are you sure about the EOS??
    I was told it was just re-packaged.

  9. #9
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    Repackaged number; 88862586.....Blackstone has the total numbers for add packs.
    What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?

  10. #10
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    I would run either GM EOS or Crane cam break in additive.
    Dumb question time.... Do the hydraulic roller cam and lifters require anything special, or can you just treat them like a mechanical roller setup?????
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  11. #11
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  12. #12
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    Dumb question time.... Do the hydraulic roller cam and lifters require anything special, or can you just treat them like a mechanical roller setup?????
    Dave,you can treat them just like a mech. roller cam.

  13. #13
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    Dave,you can treat them just like a mech. roller cam.
    Thanks Erik, I keep looking at the hydraulic rollers....... Must be the geezer in me, but I'm still reluctant to run anything in my valve train that has hydraulic in the part name!!!!!!


    Oh yeah, one of the locals wiped out his brand new Crane cam and lifters on Sunday, said it took him awhile to get the timing and idle mixture set......ran the brand new cam and lifters at 800rpm for about 15 minutes while he was messing around..... Wiped out two lobes.... Surprise, Surprise, huh??? Of course he was at the parts store first thing Monday morning screaming at Tommy about honoring the "warranty". He lost....
    Last edited by Dave Severson; 02-26-2008 at 09:01 PM.
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  14. #14
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW
    Bob, that's not the same stuff. Here is what it says:

    Part 10-106
    12371532
    E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant (1 pint)

    Is specially formulated as an engine assembly lubricant
    Provides protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing
    Is not recommended for use as an additive for engine oil

    Corporate CYA
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  15. #15
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    Thanks Erik, I keep looking at the hydraulic rollers....... Must be the geezer in me, but I'm still reluctant to run anything in my valve train that has hydraulic in the part name!!!!!!
    There are a lot of varibiles but I.M.O. 6,500 rpm's about max. rpm.
    After 6,500 I would go mech. roller.
    There have been some Ford guys with beehive springs, hollow stem valves etc. hitting 7,000 rpms but it would make me nervous.

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