Thread: Valves just wont shut up!

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Ok guys a little help! I have a .60 over 350 with all the good stuff I could buy for her. I had the motor built about five years ago and it now has about 20,000 miles on it. When I first put the engine in my camaro I noticed that the lifters were kinda loud but never paid much attn to it cause you just could barley hear it and the motor ran so well. But i have just finished putting the motor in my 87 ext cab s10 and the lifter noise is driving me up the wall. I took my heads #416 to the machine shop and had them worked. I had them port and polished, gave them a 3 angle valve job and upgraded the springs. In the truck I can hear the motor much better (not sure why) which is why the lifters are driving me insane. I have adjusted them untill I cant do it anymore. What I mean is I can adjust them and there fine but just as soon as I put a few thousand rpms on them they start making noise again.
Let me explain. At an idle no noise, WOT no noise, Its while your just cruising that there tapping away. I have read and read all I can and everyone just says check to see if the studs are pulling out. There not pulling out and as a matter of fact they have not moved. Can you guys help me with this?

How about this? Perhaps this could be part of the problem. Tell me what you think.

My block is dated 67-77. As most of you know when these motors were placed in cars the timing tab was in the center of the cover.(right?) Well you can not buy this timing tabs anymore and must use the aftermarket which mount on the side. Well when it comes to the balancer that is a problem. If I go and buy a new balancer for my block the timing mark on the balancer will not match up with an aftermarket timing tab. As a matter of fact at TDC the mark on the balancer is striaght up. How do I time the motor right? What am I missing? I feel the motor is timed right but cant figure total timing like this? What do I do?

just-speed

Hello Speed, I need a little more info. on the lifters,like are they hydraulic or solid? okay, I used to run rhodes lifters, great lifter but they make that chattering noise that you are talking about. It was a hydraulic lifter and they would bleed off to mellow out the big duration on the camshaft. The ticking would drive me nuts usually when I got up into the higher R.P.M.'s they would pump up and the ticking would go away. Thats all I've gotta say about that....as far as changing your balancer you can always set your old balancer to top dead center and mark the timing cover where it is. Then, put your new balancer on without moving the crank and mark it by the mark on the timing cover.If your going with one of the new fluid filled balancers then you know it would be balanced and you'de have your timing mark. Hope this helps or at least gives you an idea. Happy New Year!

Vegas

P.S. Are you adjusting them while they are hot or when they are cold cuz that can make a difference too.ask streets whats best.

Ok guys first let me correct a mistake I have made! I said lifters when I should have said rockers.( Why do I do that?) My lifters are in fact Hydraulic. Its the rockers that wont shut up. When I adjust them I always do it while its hot.

Vegas I do thank you for the insight to the balancer problem. I will look at doing that. I have already replaced the balancer and it is just like the stock one. I would love to get my total timing right but without the right tab to assit its not easy.

is it a stock stamped rocker pressed in stud and a dimpled lock nut...shoot me the details may be I can help

Just-speed,

Tell us how you are adjusting your valves. The step by step process.

Thanks

Pat

Learned some thing new from streets again, I did'nt know that straight edge trick.I do usually install screw in studs with guide plates for Ford though,solve's alot of other problem's.I'm gonna have to start writing this stuff down though,my memorie ain't what it use to be.

Vegas

the rockers are aftermarket stamped 1.6 with stock pressed in studs, the lock nuts are new dimpled. I adjust the valves with the motor running hot. I pull one valve cover at a time and adjust all the valves. I losen the nut untill i hear tap and adjust it back down untill it stops, then I tighten it down a half turn more.

I agree with the straight edge to check the studs but I have had some bad luck with the dimpled lock nut and the stock used studs loosening up also what lift cam and cruise rpm does this thing see with 1.6's and a cam with a little lift if you have stock springs you could be binding or stressing that locknut or forcing the studs out of the head stock springs at best are only good for about .480 lift. I would adjust one valve at a time warm with the engine off doing the zero lash method getting one valve open on each cylinder and adusting the closed one to zero lash then 9/16's to 5/8's of a turn past has always worked for me...let me know what else you have, also are you sure its the rockers? just cause I have had wrist pins, thrust bearings, loose torque converter bolts make a clattering noise at a set rpm...just curious