Thread: heads id ???

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how do i id a set of chevy sb heads ?they came off of a 350 or so thats what i was told. i actually heard the engine they came off from run and it ran well.i bought a sb350 .030 with flat tops and i think a stock crank.the motor is just that the block crank and pistons.i got a pile of extras with it like a set of heads that the dude said came of a 350 4 bolt?? i got a weiland single plane high rise and a factory aluminum 4 barrel intake from who knows what. Block #s are14093638 i cant find the outhers yet do to nastiness all over the block.got it all for $100.what i would like to know is how do i identify these heads they have straight plug holes if it helps.

Pull a valve cover and look for the casting number,it will be similar to the block number or something like this 14022601,then just look em up on one of the many
chevy websites.

Type mortec in your search bar they have all chevie motor numbers identifacation by casting numbers. Francis

thanks guys, they turned as# 3927185 69-76 307/327/350=70cc chambers,next question is are they any good for the #14093638 .030 87-95 350 4 bolt?

Originally Posted by 49 club coupe

thanks guys, they are deffinately not vortech heads though

He said MORTEC not VORTEC... It's a chevy number web site.........

i know i was being a retard

"are they any good for the #14093638 .030 87-95 350 4 bolt?"

Depends on what "good" means to you. These are garden variety, low-performance heads. Don't even think about spending money on them to try to improve them. If you're building a daily driver with a stock or very, very short aftermarket cam, then yes, they'll work.

well thats what i was wondering if maybe i should get some better ones what would be" good" for this 355 with a mild cam and single plane high rise maybe a 650 carb maybe a 2800 stall?

In my opinion, "single plane hi-rise" and "2,800 stall" do not belong in the same sentence with "mild cam".

First, determine what you want the motor to do. Do you want a bread and butter grocery getter that will get good fuel mileage and operate efficiently from idle to about 4,000 rpm's or something a little hotter that will operate from 1,500 to 5,000 rpm's or a motor that will operate from 3,000 to 6,500 or what? Your operating rpm's will dictate the equipment used. Tell us where you want to operate and we'll pitch in with suggestions.

a little hotter would be good 1500-5000 range.im trying to figure out if the parts i got can some how go together or what.i would like to have a hot street car no competition or anything dont have to be real great on gas just a good weekend worrior and tire burner at the shows.i kind of got stuff i dont need i guess and not sure what to get.

O.K. At 1,500 to 5,000, this is gonna be a fairly mild motor. You see, here's the thing. If you're gonna operate within that range, then the cam has to be fairly mild. Cams have an effective operating range of about 3,500 rpm's, so if you want to operate 1,500 to 5,000, then you have to choose a cam that will operate in that range. That, in turn, will dictate the static compression ratio you have to use to operate on pump gas and also dictate the rear gear and stall of the converter. Here's a hydraulic roller from Crane that would be in the ballpark. By the way, never buy a cam based on information posted on a website. Always call the cam grinder for a specific recommendation. It's a free service they offer. Another point, I will not recommend a flat tappet cam to anyone anymore. Too much grief with the new oil formulations.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

You'll notice that they recommend 8.0 to 9.5 static compression ratio with this cam. I'd build the motor with around 9.0:1, use a dual-plane manifold such as the Edelbrock Performer Vortec (no, not the RPM model and no, not the air gap model), GM 12558060 Vortec heads
http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD806...merIntake.aspx
and a squish of 0.035" to 0.045". I might also choose a converter that stalls in the 1,800 to 2,000 rpm range.

These heads have no heat passages to heat the intake manifold on cold mornings, so warm-up will take a little longer, but they're the best bang for the buck in my opinion. Also, the theoretical valve lift of the cam matches the max valve lift of the stock Vortecs. No machining required.

This particular cam is ground on a 112 degree lobe separation angle which will provide good idle for vacuum-operated accessories and good mid range to upper end power. If you didn't have to worry about manifold vacuum and wanted a little more kick lower in the rpm range, you should talk to your favorite cam grinder about grinding the cam on closer centers, like 110 or 108.

thanks i appreciate the info i guess ill hunt down some parts

What kind of Build are you looking to do ? Mild Street or street / Strip ? And for heads what cost Budget are you on . The single plane is a no go for a 355 street car . The 2800 stall will work well . What rear end will you run in that car ?

Not to hijack your thread- but I just discovered a set of 186's on my 327 in my streetrod. Are these still a good head? Yes they are 202's- are they worth much?

Yes they are . They are the Late Fuelly heads with the bolt holes in the front . Chevy used them on 1969-70 350-300hp with the 1.94 / 1.50 valves . And on the 350-350hp-370hp L-T1s and the DZ 302s with the screw in studs /guide plates and 2.02 / 1.60 valves . They have 64cc Chambers with flat top pistons on a 355 with a 0 deck you will have 10.25.1 C/R . I have a set with the 1.94 / 1.50 valves in real good shape . COOL