Thread: Is 225 too hot?

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After market gauges have different senders. For instance, I have VDO gauges matched with a 250* sender. Since I'm wiring my car now, I decided that I wanted a transmission temp sender as well (thanks, Henry Rifle - Jack). I looked through the VDO catalog and chose one identical to the engine coolant temp sender, not the 200* or 300* version. It's installed in my aluminum trans. pan with a SPDT switch so I can read one or the other.

Soooooo with that said, the gauge and sender need to match. Not the GM to gauge

Nobody said GM sender needed to match...the example was that GM even had several ohm ranges.

Originally Posted by robot

Nobody said GM sender needed to match...the example was that GM even had several ohm ranges.

You just re-answered your own statement - they need to match to work right.

So is it possible then that I'm not over heating, the gauges are just off?

Youther old way you can try is after driving it awhile and stop and its shut off open hood and listen for sounds from the radiator . If the engine is running hot some notice would prevail . A gurgle here or there something .

Originally Posted by youther

So is it possible then that I'm not over heating, the gauges are just off?

Youther - didn't your gauges come with a sender? TPI Tech's website says that it's part of the package. (Why stop with a 302W, why not a 351W They're a bit wider and taller then the 302, but for sure will fit an 'A')

Bobby - the rad wouldn't (shouldn't?) gurgle if it had the proper pressure cap. The cap raises the boiling temp of the coolant. For instance, a 15# cap at sea level, the boiling temp would be in the range of 245-255F. Corrected for altitude, somewhat less, but still higher then 220..

Ok, I took the car out this weekend and drove it at least 100 miles and the car never got over 200 1 single time. The temps have been about 10 degrees cooler than the last time I had it out and when it got 225 the temps were higher than average for our area. Would that little bit of temp change make that much difference?

Oh yeah, I haven't touched anything or changed anything on the car either.

could cause it.. hot air dosn't cool as good as cold air

The biggest problem ( I see ) with it running a bit warm all the time, is there is less room for error should you have a problem. I.E. if you gain a mere 15-20 degrees you are boiling over. I have been working on the 350 in my 64 C10 off-and-on for about three years now trying to get rid of its heating problem.

The current set up includes a Summit aluminum radiator, with an 18 inch electric fan in front. ( pushing ) Also, have an oil cooler, about 8X10" which sits below the radiator. On the road, with 90 degrees ambient, it is now a cool 180. Still plan to make a couple changes though: going to put a themral switch in line with the fan relay to shut off the fan below 170, and add a small fan to the oil cooler as the temp still climbs up a bit at idle. also need to make a stone guard for the oil cooler using some expanded steel.