Thread: Is 225 too hot?
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06-07-2008 01:49 PM #1
Is 225 too hot?
Well my car has new gauges and a new temp sensor in the top of the engine. With my other old gauges and sensor my car ran under 200. But now the car maintains around 225. Will the new sensor and gauges make a difference, and if it stays at 225 all the time will it have effects long term?Go Hokies!!!!!! ACC CHAMPS '04,'07,'08
4-16-07
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06-07-2008 02:18 PM #2
My wife had an 81 Corvette it ran 220 I thought that was too hot, she called a Chevy dealer and they said it was normal. Check with a Chevy dealer and give them the engine numbers. On my 86 Elcamino the red area is 200 to 225. I would not want my street rod running at 225. Might add another electric fan to help bring it down.
Richard
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06-07-2008 02:26 PM #3
Thanks for the info. Where are the numbers located on a block.....LOL!Go Hokies!!!!!! ACC CHAMPS '04,'07,'08
4-16-07
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06-07-2008 02:46 PM #4
1st it depends on what kind of motor and year it is as to the temp its gonna run. What size motor is it, also is it an EFI TBI TPI or carbed motor?Last edited by mooneye777; 06-08-2008 at 05:38 AM.
Live everyday like it were your last, someday it will be.
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06-07-2008 02:47 PM #5
I think if the only thing that has changed is the sender and guage. One of the two gauges is off.
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06-07-2008 06:39 PM #6
The block number should be on the passenger side just below the head, the alternator might make it hard to see if it’s on that side. The older 396 engines had numbers that gave the horsepower by the distributor passenger side. If you could tell the service manager at a Chevy dealer could tell you. I just thought I took it for granted it was a Chevy, maybe not though.
The newer engines, I'm lost so maybe another member can give you a better idea. Good luck, it's a pain to have an engine running hot.
Richard
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06-08-2008 06:42 AM #7
It's a sbc 350 for now....LOL! I'm gonna put a 302 in her eventually.Go Hokies!!!!!! ACC CHAMPS '04,'07,'08
4-16-07
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06-08-2008 07:11 AM #8
If it is a 81 and up center bolt valve cover motor with , fuel injected TBI, or TPI, then they are supposed to run hotter. But at 225 on this style engine the external fan is supposed to kick on and cool it down to about 205, and not continually run at 225. If the motor is a pre 81 with valve cover bolts on the outer flange, then 225 is warm and even 200 is considered about as hot as you would want it to stay at on the pre 81 350 carbed motor.
Live everyday like it were your last, someday it will be.
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06-08-2008 01:51 PM #9
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06-08-2008 03:26 PM #10
those are the pre 81 valve covers. synthetic should not make any difference. as long as you have a vented radiator filler neck, with a vent tube running to a puke tank, or right to the ground. Then It cant be over filled. And 99.9 percent of radiators made are vented. If it does not have a puke tank you need one. When the car is running (start from cooled down) Squeeze the upper radiator hose that goes to the thermostat housing. If it is tight and firm the thermostat is closed, as soon as it opens the hose will be softened and you will be able to squeeze it flat. check your temperature at that point to verify the themostats operating range. It should open at 190 or so for a carburated motor with the heads you have.
What type fan are you running, from a water pump pulley, or a radiator mounted unit? If its a pump mounted unit does it have a full shroud from the radiator to the fan blades? If not that may be your problem, and an additional radiator mounted fan might become a nessacary item, and cheaper in the long run to get, then modifying a shroud in a custom fit car like yours.
here is a pic of my puke tank set up from the filler neck.Last edited by mooneye777; 06-08-2008 at 03:33 PM.
Live everyday like it were your last, someday it will be.
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06-08-2008 03:41 PM #11
Good advice mooneye777, It's nice when people can help one another, if a guy in the beginning gets a smart remark he my not ask again then it is one unhappy car guy.
We all hope you get it straighten out soon youther.
Richard
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06-17-2008 08:07 AM #12
could cause it.. hot air dosn't cool as good as cold airYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-18-2008 08:42 AM #13
The biggest problem ( I see ) with it running a bit warm all the time, is there is less room for error should you have a problem. I.E. if you gain a mere 15-20 degrees you are boiling over. I have been working on the 350 in my 64 C10 off-and-on for about three years now trying to get rid of its heating problem.
The current set up includes a Summit aluminum radiator, with an 18 inch electric fan in front. ( pushing ) Also, have an oil cooler, about 8X10" which sits below the radiator. On the road, with 90 degrees ambient, it is now a cool 180. Still plan to make a couple changes though: going to put a themral switch in line with the fan relay to shut off the fan below 170, and add a small fan to the oil cooler as the temp still climbs up a bit at idle. also need to make a stone guard for the oil cooler using some expanded steel..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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