Thread: 283 Timing Gears/Chain

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Hello I have a stock 283 in a 66 Impala 4 dr. with factory air. I recently been having some probs lately and this is about the only thing I havent done to get it started. Can someone guide me were to Order new timing Gears and chain. Should I stick with chain or go with the new style? Or anything else i should do while i have the cover opened. If this doesnt work I guess its time for a complete rebuild.. The Original probs were in a different post.

Go to your local parts store..Napa, Carquest,and get a standard timing chain,gears and gaskets. Coolant,oil and filter

moter is right, if you got a local parts store drive over and pick up a good set from them. I would go with a double roller chain set if they got it but since there is not a lot of go fast parts on the car, a good stock set will do you fine. Make sure you are @ #1 TDC before you tear into it. If you have no parts store available then go to

www.jegs.com or


www.summitracing.com

Hold on. What you've been describing in your original thread is an intermittent problem, not a constant one that would be bad all the time like a timing chain problem, although the timing set is probably worn out and the motor may have jumped a cog or two. That could explain the damper timing marks being off with number one cylinder on TDC firing. First things first. The car sat 2 years through all kinds of weather and could have rusted up the ground connections. Toddle on down to autozone and purchase 2 ground straps.....
http://www.autozone.com/R,1065027/st...ductDetail.htm
You'll want to run one of them from the body (firewall) to the motor and the other from the firewall to the frame. The key here is to get down to bare metal where you attach the ground straps. Use sandpaper or emery cloth to remove all paint and residue from your attachment points. There is usually a suitable attachment point on the intake manifold. On the frame, you may have to drill a small hole in the frame and use a sheet metal screw to attach the strap after sanding down an area larger than the strap lug. On the firewall, if you can't locate a suitable place, use a center punch to punch a hole in the sheet metal (after looking to see if there is anything on the other side of the firewall at that point that may be injured and after sanding down to bare metal) and attach the strap lug with a sheet metal screw. Punching a hole in sheet metal works better than drilling a hole because some of the material will be displaced inward and will provide a better bite for the sheet metal screw. This whole operation should cost less than 15 bucks and it probably needs it anyway. The original grounds have been in place for over 40 years. Once the ground straps are in place, gob the front and back sides with RTV to prevent moisture from getting to the connections.

Whether the car has a resistance wire or a ballast resistor between the switch and the coil, either one serves the same purpose. That is to prevent burning up the coil with a constant 12v. When cold, you should be able to measure a full 12v at the + side of the coil with the key on. After the motor is fired and begins to warm up, the resistor wire or ballast resistor will begin to decrease voltage down to 6v to prevent coil damage. Just so you know.

Hmm now this sounds interesting...Ok so i tried something else here today. I moved the distributor counterclockwise almost to were i couldnt move it anymore and the car fired up. It barley ran again but stayed running and then I tried to adjust back into Time in little bitty steps and engine would cut off and would not start unless i put it back to that Out of wack point. What do you think about that?

About the ground straps I will get the New Ground straps this week. Can I use the old holes (after sanding them down) or make new ones? But what your saying is this could explain the 6v reading im getting when the car is cold? and possibly be the culprit in this mess..Srry for my stupidity im still wet behind the ears lol How much for you to fly over and Put some school into session lol J/k

"It barely ran again but stayed running and then I tried to adjust back into Time in little bitty steps and engine would cut off and would not start unless i put it back to that Out of wack point. What do you think about that?"

I think you have more than one problem going on.
What do you mean by "tried to adjust it back into time". The motor will tell you where it wants to be. Just move the distributor to where it runs and leave it alone for now. If you have to take the distributor out and re-stab it because the vacuum can is hitting on the manifold, then ok, take it out and re-stab it one tooth either way. The motor doesn't care, it just wants spark at the right time in relation to the position of the piston in the cylinder. It doesn't care where the cap is rotationally, or if #1 position on the cap is pointed toward the 5:30 O'Clock position like it's meant to be or if it's pointing toward the firewall. I'm fairly sure the timing chain has jumped a tooth, but you can still get the motor ignition-timed properly until you can change the timing set. I understand the damper ring is useless, so I'm going to outline how to set the whole mess up properly AFTER you change the timing set. I wrote this for the wiki on another forum, but I don't think anybody will mind if we use it over here.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

"Can I use the old holes (after sanding them down) or make new ones?"

You can do it any way you wish. I'd leave all the old stuff alone and make new connections if it were mine, but that's just the way I am about things.

"But what your saying is this could explain the 6v reading im getting when the car is cold?"

No, I'm not sayin' that. I don't have any idea how that's happening. With the key on and the wire disconnected at the coil and putting a meter between the end of the wire and ground, you're getting 6v?

Instead of "throwing a bunch of parts " at the car. Why dont you have it towed or drive it to a good repair shop and have then diagnose the problem and repair the problem. You may say it is expensive to do that...but what about all the time,effort and parts you have installed and stil have the same problem?

Hello again

I finally found my Beginning problem and I could not beleive it.. The Positive Cable from Battery to Starter damn near fell apart in my hands. I had lost all power to the car finally and then I started tracing wires and noticed that the post end had a crack in it. So when I spliced it to replace the end the rubber around the wire was very soft and had alot of corrosion in it. I went and bought a new one and pow it started right up. Of course through all the Bs of trying different things, I had to reset timing and Carb adjustments again but she is running fine now. Ty for all your help and I couldnt believe that this was all it was WOW..