Thread: Best OEM block for 355 or 383 stroker? Years or casting #'s?

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Hi all, as the title says what year of blocks are the best for building a drag motor for 355 or 383? We have a 327 in our drag car right now and are wanting a combination with more torque. Right now we have a 4 bolt main block which my dad believes is from the mid 70's but I haven't checked to see what the casting numbers are. We also have another 350 block thats just 2 bolt main.

I was wondering what the best casting numbers were to be more dependable for 500-600hp n/a'd drag motor w/o nitrous. Thanks!

http://www.mopar1.us/ebay/MorTec,%20...ers%20List.htm

or just google mortec
stay away from the mexican blocks

Step up to the plate and build a 427 or 434....
http://www.currymotors.gmmotors.com/...wtieBlock.aspx
http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-536-8...roker-kit.aspx

unfortunitely the car can't hold anything bigger then 400 base block. As the valve covers will not clear the hood. The car is a 87 chevy cavalier chassis car so our options are pretty much small block. The budget for the motor is also not very high so we are going to have to make do with what block we have.

I would look into taking the two bolt block and have splayed caps installed. I built a 383 years ago and was not impressed. An engine builder told me the 327's worked so nice because of the short stroke and a longer rod(5.7) when they increased the stroke on the 350 the rod stayed the same, he said by going to a 6" rod and change the compression height on the piston would give the 350 more torque plus these are off the shelf parts so they will not break the bank. That's my two cents which isn't worth a penny.



Just having fun

Check this article.

http://books.google.com/books?id=Aat...um=2&ct=result

Forgive my ignorance! I'm guessing a 428 and 434 is a small block 400 based build isn't it! Is there a lot of clearancing issues involved in building one of these strokers?

If I wanted the best block, think I'd look at World Products and some of the other aftermarket blocks.... Saves a lot of scrounging and a lot of rejects....
When you're looking, don't forget about core shift and all the other dumb mistakes in an OEM factory production block.... With the quality aftermarket pieces, the components are produced to much higher standards...........

Start with the new Dart SHP block http://www.dartheads.com/products/shp-blocks.html I would suggest getting it from CNC Blocks N/E http://www.cncblocksnortheast.com/ because they are a great shop and will fully blue print and machine the block for $1795 delivered. It's very easy to sink close to that much money into a 30+ year old GM block and you still have a GM block when done.

If you're trying to do it as cheap as possible, the only GM block to use is an early 3970010 block with the 2482 main caps. If it has the 2482 main caps it is a high performance block from GM. It will also be a 10/20 block with high tin and high nickel. Do not use a grey iron 3412 main capped block for a 600hp build. You would be better off starting with a 2-bolt main block and having splayed caps installed. By the time you payed for splayed caps, you'd be close to Dart SHP block.

I really don't wanna have a hassle with dealing with a OEM block for a 434 build.... So what would you guys recommend for a block with the price/quality thrown in too???

Don't want to deal with the hassle of using a OEM block... Any see an advantage in price and or quality beteen World Product and Dart 400 Blocks?

Decided that i'm just gonna get an aftermarket block for a 434 build. Any certain advantages/quality differences between World Product and Dart????

Anyone have any opinions????

I would go with WP, but I'm sure they are both fine.

Go with the Dart block. There have been some casting issues with World Product blocks, and the forums I frequent have had said the Dart blocks are superior.