Thread: 302 build

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i dont know about a bigger motor lasting much longer i ahve seen guys scatter their bbc's sbc's ford mopars at te end of a season. its all in how you build it and what you put into it 90% of the time.

I personally applaud your desire to build a 283 motor. Rare today to see anyone building a smaller motor. I ran a 283 bored an 1/8th of an inch for 6 or seven years in my Model A and had a blast with it. never found the lack of Torque to be any problem in a street car. Besides its different and I like that. 383's are done to death, it makes a good motor alright, but every body and his sister has built one. Not many bored 283 out there. Build it your way and make it work you might just be surprised how it ends up.

Roland

Yes that is so True about all them 383 Builds ? I remember the First 383 Builds . Guy would take Good Rebuildable 400 SB Chevy Short Block a-part for the Cranks ? Crazy they could of had a nice 406 Build . As for the 283's I always wanted to Build an +60 Over 292ci . I did have a Friend that Built a 301 Like Scooter and had it in a 1967 Camaro with 4-Speed and a 4.56 Gear . Very Fast Car with No Lack of Power . The 307 is another Over Looked SB Chevy that will make good Power .

Tango---4 bolt spayed bolt caps are available for the small journal blocks---have done dozens of them over the years.
One major issue of the smaller bore engines is valve size--you can't get big valves into the small bores.
Trend in high horsepower engines is toward smaller bearings---we have done 1386hp at 10400rpm with Honda 1.88 bearings from 500inches

On the other hand---we are working out the final details of an affordable SBC and SBF 427 engine packages---no more 383s or 408 but a 427---more of a magic number
Nicer weather we're having===got to work on my truck today

Jerry

jerry, You can eun run 2.02 heads, and after its bored .125 its not a small bore anymore it's a 4" block.

I like the idea of expermenting, and looking outside of the box. If we all did the same thing and built the same old boreing engines it would get dull in a hurry. Theres a guy lives about 10 miles out in the county here that has a very nice 34 Ford coupe. We pass each other on the road all of the time. The other day I had taken my 46 Ford out for a drive and stopped at the Boat Ramp at lake Guntersville for a smoke. That little 34 coupe came flying by and man did it sound cool, he was running it pretty hard and it had that typical Ford rumble as he flew by. About ten min later he came back by and pulled into the lot and introduced his self. As I was looking at his car the Small Block Ford he had in it was almost dwarfed in the engine bay. It had four Webers and it was a very cool engine. I asked him which small Block Ford it was and to my amazement he told me it was a 221 Cubic Inch motor. Man how cool is that I thought to myself now theres a guy thinking outside the box.

Roland

Now here's a chevy engine for you, and its way outta the box got any guess's as to what it is?

Yes Roland, you can run 2.02 valves---I was talking more about 2.100 and larger

Here are the Only Brand I can Find that Make Splayed 4-Bolt main Caps for the S/J Block http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/11050/10002/-1 But that is not the weakest link . The S/J Rods with the 11/32 Bolts are the Problem . Yes you can install ARP Bolts and have the Rods Large ends re-sized . And Stud the two bolt caps to build a Strong Street / Strip Engine . As for Valve Size on a 4" Bore SB Build 2.08" work . They are way big enough for any H.P Build you will Like to Run in that Bore Size .

just about any stock oem rod needs to be tossed these days--by the time you buy good bolts, resize the big end and bush the small end you end up with a stock length inferior expensive rod. Aftermarket rods are maybe the best valve of any pieces you might want to use in a high power or high rpm engine.

I don't know what you mean by the 283 block being too thin for the 4 bolt caps????

Jerry if you have had Luck Drilling them S/J Blocks then Keep Doing it . For me I will stay with the L/J 4-Bolt Blocks . And the 2-Bolt Main Studed S/J Block Builds . I built a few of Both Kinds in all sizes

Tango---from your discussion of the 4 bolt cap conversions and saying that the 283 were too thin---you may have missed that with angled outter bolts they go into the outter block side rails---probably the strongest part of the block!!

I can only assume that maybe your method is to put a oem stock type 4 bolt onto a 2 bolt block and in that case, yes I would agree that not only are 283 blocks but ALL blocks are too thin--you are cutting the main web up in its weakest area and that will lead to failure.

must have been a GHOST post?

Originally Posted by smokinz28lt1

Well I am going to put a 283 crank in my 350 and build a 302, i have a crank out of a 1962 or 1963 283, a 350 out of a 76 pickup and 60cc heads from a 1964 327. I know the crank journals sizes are diffrent and but i cant seem to find the spacers to go from a 2.45" main to a 2.30"??? Also I'm pretty sure i cant use the pistons or rods out of the 350 right??? basically I just need to know what all i need to change to make this work and possibly where i can get them

Nationwide auto parts Has the retro fit Bearings Not spacers....Got to Love a 302 SBC