Thread: Help me indentify this thing plz.

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Aight guys, got a little problem here.

The block I have has these #s. I've been to every block casting site, suffix site, all that. But maybe someone here knows. This is just a block nothing else. No heads, crank, pistons, etc.

The casting # on back of block is # 3914660( it is a 68' 327ci 2 bolt main)
Ok thats good, I know its a 2 bolt main, but its been bored before but not honed. The cylinder bores measure 4.027" all of them the same. Guess the finish hone is .003" ???

Aight 2 #'s stamped on the block in front of passenger side head

From left to right

First # 7193214 Second # TO6181HH


Now in the second # the second digit or letter could be a O or a zero, and the last 3 digits or letters I realize could be a 1HH or a THH or IHH? But according to suffix codes it could only be a 1969 350 fullsize/TH400 or THH
(1971 307/fwrdcab /c2500?)????? I have no clue. Ill try to get pics posted as soon as I can. Thanks for the help.

what the heck, no replies, this aint good.

whats the problem???

Don't know if there's much more we can tell you. As you correctly surmised, the casting number is that of a 1968, 327 2 bolt.

The other numbers are partial VIN, however 7193214 does not follow Chevy sequencing conventions, as you've probably already determined.

The "TO618" tells me that the block is from Tonawanda made on June 18th. The "1HH" does not match anything in 1968. This could be a replacement engine with some of the numbers stamped by a local dealer.

What additional information would be helpful? If you're going to build it, you already know what size it is and it appears to have been bored and ready to final hone for .030 over.

You have several crank options (some of which may require machine work for clearances).

302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (5.7" rod)
327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (5.7" rod)
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" (5.7" rod)


Regards,
Glenn

Thanks so much for the Crank options.. Guessing I could get this thing line bored? TO get the main journals to 2.45"? Maybe with splayed caps to help it out? So I could use a more affordable attainable aftermarket crank? Do you think this block would hold 450-500hp OK?

The 327, in my opinion, is one of the best motors ever built. It loves to run and if you want to build it, you can pull 400 horsepower for a reasonable investment. If you have a decent crank with this block, I’d leave it stock in terms of stroke and main configuration, i.e., two bolt is plenty strong.

I really like Vortec heads. They are reasonably priced and flow well in their stock configuration. We have been discussing heads on a different thread and I recommended Scoggin-Dickey part number SD8060RA2. It is a Vortec that has been modified for extra valve lift and has heavy duty springs to handle big roller cams with lift up to 0.600”. List is price is $399.95 each, but they’ll likely discount a set (say $750, plus shipping). If your goal is 450 to 500 horsepower, the budget will have to grow substantially in the head department. If you have a ton of money, the AFR heads are very good, but are more than twice the price - they will help find you another 50 plus horsepower.

Camshaft selection is also key. There are several experts on this site with computer simulation packages that give very accurate results that closely mirror what your real performance will be. There is a strong tendency to “over cam” a small block so I would recommend restraint here and stay away from big duration numbers in favor of lift. If you are fortunate enough to have Techinspector1 chime in he will be able to run numbers for cams that you may be interested in. I would strongly suggest that you stay hydraulic and buy cam and lifters together with a good timing set from Summit (or similar). Summit part COMP Cams SK12-205-2 is a 252/252 duration with .425 lift. It comes with the cam, lifters and timing set for $209.

Good set of KB pistons with Sealed Power rings will run another $250.

Intake manifold – Edelbrock Performer RPM $220

Carburetor - Holley or Edelbrock or QudraJet – all are good. My personal preference is Edelbrock 1406, 600 cfm with electric choke. All are around $225

HEI ignition is the way to go for reliability, simplicity and reasonable cost.

Some machine shop work to press your piston pins, clean up the bore, install cam bearings, etc will cost a few hundred bucks. Bearings and gaskets and you’ll have a stout 400 plus horsepower motor that will start at the touch of a key and run all day long.

Good luck and let us know what you decide to do!

Regards,
Glenn

P.S. I like yout testimony in your signature.. Blessings Brother!