Thread: Best Break in method???

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I just finished my 350 build and was curiouse as to the best method for breaking it in. I am not going to be driveing it still for a while it has no interior and no lights. I was just looking at moveing it around the yard and in and out of the shop tell I get it painted and back togather. I am I safe driveing it that little bit or should I wait to be running it tell I can get it on the road?

Thanks
ChevyDave

The most critical is getting it primed and started right away. Hopefully your carb and ignition are good shape so you are not fighting too many problems at once. The quicker it starts, the quicker the oil gets flowing through your engine. In my heyday of building engines, I could get them to fire and up on rpm in under two or three seconds of cranking.

Once it does start, bring it up to about 2000 rpm. Have someone watching for leaks too. Get the timing set as soon as you can and run it about 20 minutes varying the rpm slightly above and below 2000.

Now for the rest of the break in might be tricky for your situation. You will want to start getting some load on the engine to seat the rings. Not too much load, but enough to get the oil temperature rising. Typically driving is good for this, but not too much stoplights, steady highway speeds or worst of all is idling or fast food drive thru's.

After finishing the remainder of about a hour with the driving part of the break in, wait until you are above about 500 miles before any full throttle runs. This is a good time for your first oil change too.

Again, remember to get it started right away. Too much cranking is the worst and will wear the assembly lube away before the real oil pressure gets there.

Yeah I bought one of those oil primer rods so I already had oil threw out my system and I did get it started and ran it for a bit. I think I ma going to wait on running it to much.

Thanks
ChevyDave

Don't run the motor again until you are prepared to run it from 2000 to 2500 rpm's for 35 to 40 minutes, varying rpm's during the run-in. The cam and lifters are oiled by splash off the crank and rods, so if you are only idling the motor, the cam and lifters are getting little or no oil and you will be tearing the motor down to do it again very shortly. It doesn't take long for a lifter to go south, then take the lobe out. Also, if you are using aftermarket springs, I hope you had the foresight to install worn-out stock springs in the heads for this camshaft break-in.

I dont understand what you are saying about the springs Tech. The machine shop I used recommended new stouter springs for this cam. Please dont tell I messed up.


ChevyDave

I would have waited until it was ready to drive, hopefully its a roller cam and its not an issue with the springs or the break in. Also I would not reccomend starting it several time to move around the yard and in and out of the garage. It is critical, esspecially with a new build to get it warmed up fully when you start it. If you just start it to move it around, a minute here, a minute there, fuel will leak down through the cylinders and into your pan. Building up over time and cause ring and bearing wash with the large amount of fuel mixed with the oil and running down the cylinders. Push it if you can.

The best thing would be to get some Comp Cams additive. We used to call it EOS.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=

I run it in mine all the time not just break-in. No problems so far. It's just another $11 in to the black hole.

Black Hole you got that right and thanks everyone for the info.

ChevyDave

I just ripped my engine out this morning, would it be better to pickle the engine and wait until the truck is done to rebuild and install?

If it were me man I would wait. If I had it to do all over agian i would have waited tell I had everything else finished then build the engine. The only down fall is trying to keep the paint and everything else clean. thats just my opinion.


ChevyDave