Thread: I can't decide what engine to build....need advice

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350 chevy. Parts availability, price, yadda yadda..



JUST KIDDING of course!

Not knowing your level of expertise

I don't know too much.... If I was smart I'd be building something other than a Chevrolet.... Seriously though, I grew up in a body shop. My father has owned his own shop for over 30 years. I ventured off in another direction and got a degree in Automotive Service Technology. I'm ASE certified, I'm taking my last couple of tests in May to get my master certification. I teach the Automotive Service Technology class at Elba High School. I catch on and learn quick and if it's broke I can fix it, but I just don't have all the experience under my belt to know what works well with these engine combinations and such. I've built numerous engines, but being able to properly assemble an engine and being able to put together the right combination are two different things. I enjoy a new challenge and I learn every day. Some of the latest things I've been studying are setting up proper quench area and dynamic compression. Awesome stuff that most "mechanics" don't know a thing about. That's why I'm here, to learn, and maybe I can use knowledge from my field of expertise to help someone else around here while I'm at it. Thanks for all your Help.....I should have the parts to begin this build next week.

"I don't know too much.... If I was smart I'd be building something other than a Chevrolet.... "

Mr. Dave "Blue Oval" Severson will appreciate this statement.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

"I don't know too much.... If I was smart I'd be building something other than a Chevrolet.... "

Mr. Dave "Blue Oval" Severson will appreciate this statement.

Sounds like my kind of guy!!!!!


Should I tell him about the V-10 Triton laying in the corner of the shop?????

A V-10 Triton would be awesome. I rented a U-Haul and it had a v-10 in it. It pulled like a son of a gun. Just think what it would be like in a light rod.

Kenny

I've found 2 gasket sets for the 400. Fel-Pro ks2614 and fs8364pt. They both come with permtorque head gaskets. The gasket in the fs8364pt is .039 thick and I can't find info on the ks2614. Wher can I find more info on these sets? the fs8364pt is double the price of the ks2614. is it worth the difference on my application?

Originally Posted by 35chevy

I've found 2 gasket sets for the 400. Fel-Pro ks2614 and fs8364pt. They both come with permtorque head gaskets. The gasket in the fs8364pt is .039 thick and I can't find info on the ks2614. Wher can I find more info on these sets? the fs8364pt is double the price of the ks2614. is it worth the difference on my application?

With some quick surfing, I found that the KS2614 uses a 8364PT head gasket and is described as an economy kit for stock, daily driver rebuilds. FS8364PT is described as a premium set.

so, it looks like they both have the same head gaskets. Thanks

I don't want to sound like a know it all,but, jerry clayton was wrong on his figures.A 4.125 bore and a 3.875 stroke gives you 414 ci. Do the math

Hey Jerry, you tryin' to sabotage this operation???

Thanks purpledragon530, you're correct. Jerry has built so many motors that he got mixed up and used a short crank. 4.125" X 4.000" makes a 427.

Hey Tech. I'm getting scared of the solid lift cam. I've never owned a solid lift cam before but my father has in his younger days....he says I'm not going to like it I don't mind adjusting the valves every once in a while but he and some of the old timers around here that used to run 'em talk like it's a constant headache keeping them adjusted. I'm only 34 and I just don't know these things 'cause I didn't live through it. Give me an overhead cam and a computer and I know what to do. Has the technology changed since they ran 'em back in the 70's? I'm going to take this thing on long trips and I don't want to have any problems. I wouldn't mind running a hydraulic roller but $$$$ WOW. I'm building this engine out of pocket and trying to stay away from credit cards. If I can get it all done out of pocket with exception of the cam.....hmmmm I might consider throwing a gold plated roller setup on the plastic for a couple months. what do you think of the comp xr282hr for my setup?

Let's try one step lower first, 12-423-8, install 2 degrees advanced. While I'm spending your money, we'll get a set of Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers too. I don't care whose rockers you use, even stamped ones, but use 1.6 ratio with this roller cam for theoretical lift of 0.535"/0.544". This is what works best on the DynoSim. Touch base with Comp about using 1.6 on this cam. There may be something I'm unaware of. Uses same valve springs as the flat tappet cam we used in the other DynoSim.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=159&sb=0
Go to ebay.com and type in this item number. Management of this forum doesn't want us to link ebay stuff....Item number: 330319157280. This is the best price to be had for these rockers. Scorpions are premium rockers at a very reasonable price. My software doesn't differentiate between stamped rockers and rollers, but the word on the street is that they are good for an additional 15-20 hp as a result of freeing up the friction from stamped rockers. Lower oil temps too.

Static compression ratio 9.42:1
Dynamic compression ratio 8.285:1 with intake close at 36 degrees ABDC (cam advanced 2 degrees).
Used 1 5/8 long-tube, equal-length headers for this pull.
RPM HP TQ
1500 106 361
2000 161 422
2500 202 424
3000 256 448
3500 317 475
4000 368 483
4500 404 472
5000 425 447
5500 385 366
6000 335 293
Horsepower climbs straight up the wall to 5000, then clicks off like a switch. I'm tryin' to make you a torque motor though, for long-haul cruisin, so I'm not interested in making tons of hp. If you want more top end hp, I'll increase the cam, but you'll also want to increase the SCR if we go very wild on the cam. I like to try to make 400 ft/lbs at 2000 and this cam does it easily. Nice part of a roller cam is the elimination of worry about poochin' a lobe or three. No cam break-in either. Clean 'em, oil 'em, install, fire the motor and go. Use any 10W-30 oil. Change your distributor gear to a compatible unit recommended by the cam grinder for this cam. Don't know whether Comp uses a billet or cast core for this cam. Use wear plate and thrust button, setting end play to grinder's specs. Resist any temptation to use a high pressure or high volume oil pump. A standard Melling will work fine.

Now we'll try the longer cam, 12-432-8, installed 2 degrees advanced. With 1.6 rocker ratio, new theoretical valve lift will be 0.544"/0.554".
Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.146:1 with intake close at 39 degrees ABDC (cam advanced 2 degrees).
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=160&sb=0
RPM HP TQ
1500 100 350
2000 255 408
2500 195 410
3000 248 434
3500 312 468
4000 364 478
4500 407 475
5000 437 459
5500 420 401
6000 372 326

Can you help me understand the difference between the recommended 282 solid and the 282 roller? Duration is pretty close, the solid is 236/236 and the roller is 230/236. the intake valve closing point on the solid is 44 degrees and the roller is 41 degrees. wouldn't that make the roller have a higher dynamic compression since the intake valve closes earlier? What an I missing here?

Originally Posted by Kenny Brant

A V-10 Triton would be awesome. I rented a U-Haul and it had a v-10 in it. It pulled like a son of a gun. Just think what it would be like in a light rod.

Kenny

I'm saving it for something----just haven't decided what yet!!!!!

Originally Posted by 35chevy

Can you help me understand the difference between the recommended 282 solid and the 282 roller? Duration is pretty close, the solid is 236/236 and the roller is 230/236. the intake valve closing point on the solid is 44 degrees and the roller is 41 degrees. wouldn't that make the roller have a higher dynamic compression since the intake valve closes earlier? What an I missing here?

Because of the lifter having a roller on the cam end vs. a flat surface, more aggresive rates can be used on the cam lift.... then there's the friction thing, a roller offers much less friction and wear on the cam lobe then does a flat tappet.... Richard can give you all the specifics on the difference in cam specs, I'm one of the "lightweights" on cam selection, and always defer to the experts at selection time!!!!!