Thread: fuelie 2.02 vs procomp 210cc heads

Tweet

Ok guys i have the pick in between a set of 461 fuelie heads (2.02/1.60) in good condition for $200 and a brand new set of ProComp 210cc (Bare) aluminum heads for $410 shipped which should i buy for my 350 and they will later be run on my 377 stroker. Which heads should i buy?

How much compression do you think i could run on pump gas or maybe octane booster if i run the aluminum heads with polished chambers, valves and piston tops and a tight quench?

I want to know if i can run the cam i am getting or if i should get a smaller one?

Neither one. While either head will make a street motor that will run down the road, runners in the productions heads are too small and runners in the aluminum heads are too big to be optimal.

How about blessing us with some detailed information about the use of the motor, the car it's going in, weight, gear, converter, the cam you're thinking about, intake, headers, carb, etc., etc. The more information you provide, the better answer you'll get here.

Sorry about the lack of info the car is a 74 chevy nova 3000lb, M-21 4-speed, 3:90 Gears.

THE PARTS I WAS GOING TO BUY WERE:
Pro Products hurricane intake,
Arp head studs,
Arp main studs,
Arp rod bolts,
KMJ rods with 7/16 cap screws,
Holley 850 double pumper,

PARTS THAT I HAVE:
TRW L2417 Pistons,
1182 forged crank nitrited+shot peened,
10/20 4 bolt block with 2482 main caps shotpeened,
Hooker super competition side pipes with 1 7/8" primaries and 4" collector
Sorry about all the details i'm kinda proud


THE CAMS I WAS LOOKING AT ARE SOLID FLAT TAPPET:

Int. Duration @ .050": 256
Exh. Duration @ .050": 260
Int. Lift: 552
Exh. Lift: 563
Lobe Separation: 102
Adv Int Duration: 286
Adv Exh Duration: 290
Valve Lash: .016-.016"
LSA: 106
Application: 11:1 maximum IMCA mod or light car, 4000-7100 RPM.


Int. Duration @ .050": 259
Exh. Duration @ .050": 269
Int. lift: 562
Exh. Lift: 584
Adv Int Duration: 290
Adv Exh Duration: 300
Valve Lash is: .018-.020"
LSA: 106
Application: ???????

I will probably not use the car as a daily driver (for long) and i will probably take it to the track every couple weeks, But it WILL be driven on the street every once in a while but i won't worry about that.

I am hoping to have .035-.040" Quench and enough compression for the cam i get, and i can't use a steel shim gesket if i use the aluminum heads, but i like them better than the fuelie heads because i can run more compression and they have a more efficient combustion chamber, Oh yeah and they're ALUMINUM!!!.

I would rather not run race gas but i may have to.

So what heads and cam (any solid flat tappet) should i get and do the parts i am getting sound good or bad. any suggestions?

Very confused at what to buy!

210 IMO is way too big for a streetable 350 cuber..... Something more in the 180 range will actually build better power! Bigger isn't always better, especially on runner size and cams....... Have you considered a hydraulic roller for the engine???? A bit more $$$$$, but there are some very good grinds available for street and street/strip engines....

OK, let's get some basics under our belts. This is going to be a 99% bracket car and 1% street from the sounds of it. Now, you can have a lot of fun bracket racing and do it for cheap, depending on the E.T. you want to turn with the car.

The only equipment you will need to go as quickly as 11.50 is a legal helmet, as long as the motor is naturally aspirated and you're using tires that have a D.O.T. rating on the sidewall and that's pretty cheap racing. If you're using slicks, you'll need a 360-degree driveshaft loop at 13.99.

Once you go 11.49 or quicker, you need a miminum 5-point roll bar, 5-point belts that have to be re-certed or replaced every two years, driveshaft loop regardless of tire, SFI 1.1 or 1.2 flywheel and clutch, SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3 or 9.1 scattershield and an SFI 3.2A/1 fire jacket. You'll also want to start puttin' the car on a diet, removin' steel bumpers and brackets and cuttin' out anything that isn't necessary and replacing steel with aluminum or fiberglass. That will take you to 11.00.

At 10.99, you'll need an SFI 18.1 harmonic damper and aftermarket axles. That will take you to 10.00. The 5-point bar will still be ok if the floor and firewall are unaltered. If you have modified the floor in excess of 4 square feet or the firewall in excess of 1 square foot, you'll need a full cage at 10.99. More diet is in order. Start replacing window glass with Lexan and do further cuttin' and replacing with aluminum or fiberglass.

At 9.99, things start gettin' REEEAAAALLLL expensive and you'll need way more motor.

Also, just a thought, that 3.90 gear ain't gonna cut it with the 2.20 first gear in the Muncie. MONSTER BOG with slicks.

There are any number of online calculators that will tell you the hp you need to go a certain E.T. and trap speed. If you will now bless us with your aspirations of E.T. and speed, we'll be glad to assist you in selection of parts to make enough power to do it.

Just as a for-instance, with a 3000 lb car and 200 lb driver aboard, here's how it plays out....
400 hp 11.65 @ 117
425 hp 11.41 @ 119
450 hp 11.20 @ 121
475 hp 11.00 @ 123
500 hp 10.81 @ 126
525 hp 10.64 @ 128
550 hp 10.47 @ 130

Now, as a comparison with a lightweight car at....say....2400 lbs with a 200 lb driver
400 hp 10.87 @ 125
425 hp 10.65 @ 127
450 hp 10.45 @ 130
475 hp 10.26 @ 132
500 hp 10.09 @ 135

So, how fast do you want to go????

Edit: I just went over to my DynoSim and found a flat tappet hydraulic motor I put together with cheapo boneyard L31 heads at 10.3:1 static compression ratio that made 490 hp at 6000. Just so you know.

My intentions with the car were to lighten the car up alot and put the driveshaft hoop in and the sfi approved clutch, flywheel, balancer, Scattershield, D.O.T. drag radials maybe slicks eventually and a roll bar with harnesses and all the gear, plus i will have aftermarket axles, 4 wheel disk brakes,and 4:10 or maybe 4:56 gears, i was hoping to run at least an 11.50-11.00 E.T. so i know not everything will be super cheap but i was trying to be on a budget as much as possible, also will i need 4.56 gears if i put in the 377? I was hoping to have at least 500HP is this unreasonable for a 350 or 377? What would i need to do all this?Also will the muncie tranny or my 8.5" 10 bolt axle take the beating?Would going Big Block or Stroker be cheaper?

Dave Severson I will eventually have a solid roller but for now i am going solid flat tappet.

Just a couple things to touch on for a 350 standard bore an 850 is going to be to big as will be the 1 7/8 headers and 4" collectors.
A stroker sb will be your best bet to keep the word "budget" in your vocabulary. With that said you mention something of a 377 if you indeed have a good 400 block use it tons of plus's there but if you choose to use a 350 block go with a 383 you can get a good 3.75 cast crank 9000 series pretty cheap and you will not do enough to tear them up great peices.
also as far as heads again depeding on use if your making a radical street/ strip car with a 350 stay under 200cc 383 210's will work with a good 750 carb trust me you can over carb these babys and a lil small header will keep your exaust velocity up and you will feel the torque differance a 3" exaust would be max. again not clear of your direction but if you stay with a 350 block and bore, Run good just parts match all your stuff.

Originally Posted by zwuvlu

My intentions with the car were to lighten the car up alot

Dave Severson I will eventually have a solid roller but for now i am going solid flat tappet.

What kind of car we talking about and what does it weigh now???? As for the solids now and roller later.....why spend money twice then put almost new parts on the shelf??? There's not a time limit on building a car, if it requires saving up some $$$$$ for awhile, big deal.... Or, as the old saying goes, "If you don't have the time and money to do it right, when you going to have the time and money to do it over?"......