-
05-13-2009 02:59 PM #16
Good stuff. I needed a good chuckle this afternoon. Thanks Robot.
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
05-13-2009 03:01 PM #17
-
05-13-2009 03:30 PM #18
I didn't mention names.....
-
05-13-2009 03:31 PM #19
I have seen many times where someone was complaining about the same issues that you have and more than once I found that the wires at the cap for #1 and #2 were reversed and sometimes 5 and 7 switched or the wires were parallel which can cause missing, backfiring and roughness.
-
05-13-2009 05:09 PM #20
Yeah ,I own a ford ,I would not know of all this engine rebuild stuff ,my 1986 mustang 5.0 has over 250,000 miles on it and I finally changed the spark plug wires from the factory ones a couple years ago
I figured they were due after 20 years......still passes cali emissions like a new car..
My 460 big block truck has over 250,000 miles on it and I just fired it up after sitting for 2 years and it started like it ran the day before......
I did just build a chevy engine ,they always come in pieces and need to be put together and rebuilt.....
I have seen chevy motors with alot of miles on them before,but not near as many as ford motors.
Fuel injection has made the biggest difference in motor life now that almost all motors are fuel injected they seem to last alot better than before.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
-
05-14-2009 06:57 AM #21
OK guys. I turned the engine over by hand and watched for intake and exhaust valve openings. As I was doing this I was making sure piston was coming up on the compression stroke after the ntake valve closed. Cam and crank are synched.
I've relashed the valves walkintg the engine by hand one cylinder at a time making sure each piston was at TDC on the compression stroke. I used techinspector's method.
It's now set at TDC on #1 (via dial indicator). I'll get the distributor cap and test/install the wires again. I can't find anything in my documentation or on MSD's website on how to test the Blaster 2 coil to make sure it's good. I've been through testing the box and got a spark when I removed the short from the two wires. Anyone ever had a coil that fired intermittently yet tested ok on the ignition box ?? Just curious how to look for that.
Hopefully, I'll get it back together and start it this evening. I'll let you know how it goes.
Any other recommendations before I button this thing back up ??
Mike
-
05-14-2009 10:59 AM #22
try putting in a good ol' HEI distributor and see if it behaves itself..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
05-15-2009 12:13 PM #23
Success !!!!!
Guys,
It idles and goes off idle to half throttle with no backfiring!!!!
The only change I made was to drill "breather" holes in the distributor cap and re-lash the valves. Looks like the valves were lashed too tight and when oil pressure built, they were opening the exhaust valves early.
TECHINSPECTOR1, looks like you nailed it.
I'm hopeful this is the fix. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Mike
Welcome to Club Hot Rod! The premier site for
everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more.
- » Members from all over the US and the world!
- » Help from all over the world for your questions
- » Build logs for you and all members
- » Blogs
- » Image Gallery
- » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts!
YES! I want to register an account for free right now! p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show
Getting closer on this project. What a lot of work!
Stude M5 build