Thread: Head studs
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06-22-2009 11:44 AM #1
Head studs
Anyone know what size of head studs were used in the mid sixtys 327 heads? or were there mulitiple sizes? Much appreciated.
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06-22-2009 01:49 PM #2
SBC head studs are three different lengths. As shown in the pictures below, there are 16 short ones (eight per side), used in the lower holes, 4 medium lengths (2 per side), as annotated, and 14 long (seven per side) bolts that are across the top of the head. This is a Dart block - but all SBC will look similar.
The kit shown is from ARP (Part # 134-4001, I think). Placement is critical as is making sure the holes and threads in the block are absolutely spotless. I typically ask the machinist to chamfer the holes – not all will agree with this but I have not had a problem with a slight touch here and it eliminates any “snag” points – especially if block has been decked.
I run chase/cleaning tap with cutting oil down the hole when the block comes back from the machine shop and then a small bottle brush (get them at a Dollar Store – they’re like four for a buck) with hot soapy water down each one (I like Dawn – but get your own bottle for this to keep peace in the family – trust me here) followed by compressed air and then a solvent on a different brush. I use acetone (wear gloves as its killer on the hands) again followed by compressed air. Be sure to wear goggles too as it can be really bad in the eyes! Last step is a clean fine thread, absorbent cotton rag, like a white T-shirt, dipped in oil. I wrap a small piece on a straight screw driver and gently “thread” the rag down and back. If any dirt or crud comes back – repeat the above until it’s really clean. This adds about an hour to the assembly process and I believe it to be time well spent as it allows me to carefully inspect as I go.
Now you’re ready for the head studs. Do not put any additional oil/lube on the studs. If you’ve done the above correctly, the studs thread nicely and torque perfectly. I have seen people pour or squirt oil in the holes to a point where the studs will not tighten correctly - remember, fluids do not compress. And for heaven’s sake, don’t use WD-40.
Have Fun,
Glenn"Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil
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06-22-2009 04:11 PM #3
the studs only need to be in by hand . you will need a sealer on studs that thread in the deck .it is open in to your jackets there are 3 size studs on a sbcIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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06-22-2009 06:11 PM #4
Roger on the sealer.."Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil
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06-22-2009 06:15 PM #5
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06-22-2009 06:19 PM #6
Is this gonna turn into one of those "what's the vector Victor?" jokes?
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06-22-2009 06:37 PM #7
Roger's my uncle - he lives in Indiana and holds the original patents for the Bendix disc brake caliper...
But I'm sure he'd agree to sealer on the appropriate head studs, or bolts for that matter..."Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil
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06-22-2009 07:16 PM #8
Pat, you have a seal named Roger???? Kewl thought all you had was a dog and a goat!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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06-22-2009 07:46 PM #9
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06-24-2009 07:16 AM #10
I wouldn't hand tighten the head studs. I'd back it out one turn so if it happen to turn on you while torque the heads so it won't split right down the cylinder.
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06-24-2009 12:55 PM #11
well that would be a first on a bbc i deck plate them all the time with studs. not as many SBC but i do them every now and then .i hand turn them in when i deck hone them. not hand tigthen into the deck till they dead head . when i build them if a open deck block they have teflon past on them so there not jam down in the deck so? but backing off will work to. i never had one split ? as for a 400 sbc stock block well maybe so i did hear of a over bore that crack thru and in to the wall with stock head bolts. but on the stud in the deck .if it splits then your working with a P.O.S block they only see about 65 tq and if evey thing is right the stud threads clean as well as the nuts and with moly past on washer with moly past under the washer it will turn wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY long before the block is going to split .less some dumb ass lets the studs dead head ? any ways . what ever gets you nuts offLast edited by pat mccarthy; 06-24-2009 at 06:32 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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06-24-2009 02:53 PM #12
Geeze Louize! - at 65-85 foot pounds - I've never had a block crack or break with studs (or bolts), but guess there's a first time."Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil
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06-25-2009 11:48 AM #13
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06-25-2009 12:30 PM #14
well i seen guys do alot of dumb things like tq the stud s with out the heads on like beating the oil pump pick up on the oil pump with the pump on the engine . i am sure you know there more to this??? seeing how you have a shop you must know . any one putting studs in a sbc is not driving it to church there things i do to the deck that will help with the deck . even if every thing is right your making big power with a weak block even a good block you can crack the deck .this has not much to do with the studs as much with the weak deck of a stock block or just alot of powerLast edited by pat mccarthy; 06-25-2009 at 01:29 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
If your wife has a friend that annoys you don't tell your wife to stop being friends with her. Just casually mention how pretty she is... .
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