Thread: Removing 125k lifters

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Their has gotta be an easier way.

Up down 500+ times each for all 16 lifters with a little pen magnet tearig up my hands...

I know the pros have gotta have a better way. I ask cause I've got another engine to pull down tomorow.

Searching too, but two rounds turned up nothing ~ this far.

With the motor on an engine stand, remove the cam. All the lifters will fall on the floor.

The problem with trying to take high miles lifter out from the top is that the bottom of the lifter body is a little larger diameter than the main part of the body from being beat on by the cam lobe millions of times.

they get sticky has well .you can push them thru when the cam is out or spray some carb cleaner on the lifters that help loosen the gum off the non lift part of the lifter that old oil flim builds on the lifter body .some times you can not get the cam out with the lifters are in even at full lift. the cam journals are geater then max lift so the carb cleaner works grab the lifters and work them up STOP if you feel that your cutting the bore with the lifter you should not have to worry much about this less you wipe the lifters

Thanks for the quick response.

That should make things much easier.

I'm embarased at how simple these things are and how little I know about them.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

STOP if you feel that your cutting the bore with the lifter you should not have to worry much about this less you wipe the lifters

Today on the Suburban engine: On the last last 8 I did grab them with nedle nose plyer and pull / pry them out once the lifter was 1/2 way up and could grab the center groove. They were stiff but I felt it was just crud sludge build up.

Tomorrows Boat engine shoulb be 700 hrs and Clean Clean Clean if it isn't rusted up inside (cracked head internal water leak / rusted stuck and unstuck 2x).


Now I need to find a good cam bearing change out / install article. Search Search Search....

i take them out all the time they can be a pain in the butt at times

In really tough situations I have clamped vice grips on them and kept turning them back and forth while putting upward pressure on the lifter to twist it out of the bore. Lots of something like WD40 , penetrating oil, or carb cleaner helps too. The vice grips with the curved jaws seem best for this job IMO. Obviously, the lifter is junk once you clamp down on it, but you wouldn't want to reuse ones that old anyway.

Don

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

STOP if you feel that your cutting the bore with the lifter you should not have to worry much about this less you wipe the lifters

Today on the Suburban engine: On the last last 8 I did grab them with nedle nose plyer and pull / pry them out once the lifter was 1/2 way up and could grab the center groove. They were stiff but I felt it was just crud sludge build up.

Tomorrows Boat engine shoulb be 700 hrs and Clean Clean Clean if it isn't rusted up inside (cracked head internal water leak / rusted stuck and unstuck 2x).


Now I need to find a good cam bearing change out / install article. Search Search Search....

take the crank out and flip the engine over i use a 1/4 by1 of alum and tap the lifter flush to the cam tunel then get the cam out then flip the engine back up take a round rod alum or some thing thats not going to hurt anything and tap them thru you need bigger pilers like don said but you do not want to tap them down the bores if you do this you could hurt the lifter bores if you raise up a burr on the lifters. cam bearings are EZ to do i do them all the time the block is full grooved cam housing bores .so any were you put the cam bearing there getting oil i clock all of mine oil holes on the sbc at 3:00 to 4:00 a clock gm put them in at 6:00 some guys will put the back one in at 12:00 throws more oil on dist gear .but i do not

I'm looking to reuse my 700 hr ones (basicly a block swap) If they are good and I can save them. Though I know many will disagree, but I've made a holder and marked each position and am reusing my counter rotation marine cam.

IF all is in reusable condition.

Turned out my 89 late modle Gen 1 was not a roller motor... Is a 7 hole head, and does have provision for a mechanical fuel pump.

Was also very very clean inside... Absolute minimal sludge. Wooo Hooo!

Was hoping to leave the bottom end in place and just replace the cam, lifters, push rods.

Quick and dirty 8^(

As I doubt it will see more then 10 hrs per year.

AND everything ran and sound good in the Suburban...



Might be putting my foot in my mouth or kicking my self in the arse later...

If it gernades I've got a 1998 Vortec 350 from Wifey's Yukon with 80K waiting in the wings.... Just didn't want to condem it to 10hrs per year pushing a boat.

Not exactly a hot rod, but that thru hull straight exhaust rumble makes such a beautiful noise at idle.

oh boy boats. i work on many .it like hiting you head with a hammer feels good when you stop thats a ALUM hull ? that should fly ok i see now eyes are going a ski boat ..FUN

My family sold / repaired boats for 30 years... Sold out in 1988 (when I was a young'n)

I've been out of boats for 10 yrs, I've forgotten how much fun it is..

No one around any more, so I'm on my own. . . . . . . Can't thank you guys enough for the help.

i work at one for 3 years that all my liver would take i work at one of the biggest one here in mich . it was not hard to work on over 5 boats a day any were from engines . sten drive s .and rigging i did it all and had my boss up my a$$ all day