-
08-31-2009 08:25 PM #16
Wow.... Where's the popcorn?
-ChrisPaint don't make it no faster
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
08-31-2009 08:29 PM #17
No kidding, it's gettin a little heated in here!
-
08-31-2009 08:34 PM #18
Corn's all we eat in texas! hahahah
-
08-31-2009 08:43 PM #19
good to meet you to, but im not too old. Im a ripe ol 22
-
08-31-2009 08:56 PM #20
I hear ya man.
-
09-01-2009 03:48 AM #21
2fast4u turned out to be Tango who just wanted to come here and stir the pot for reasons I cannot fathom, all offending posts have been removed, Tango's alternate account has been deleted. Let's try not to degenerate any other threads into off topic attacks.
Bill S.Instead of being part of the problem, be part of a successful solution.
-
09-01-2009 10:06 AM #22
OK LURCH, we can get back on subject now. I would advise purchase of the Torquers, based on dis-assembly and magnafluxing them for cracks. When you can post the piston deck height and head cc's, I'll try to help you further. If you do disassemble them and magnaflux them (highly recommended), leave them disassembled and measure the valve spring seat size. You'll want to find a set of old, stock, worn-out springs to use in breaking in the cam, then change the springs out after that to the springs recommended by the cam grinder for whatever cam you decide on.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
-
09-01-2009 10:46 AM #23
I already bought them so lets just hope they are good i guess I am gonna need to buy some tools to tear down the heads. Any suggestions on what tools to use? I know when I do it assembled i need to fill the cylinder with compressed air.
btw these are the heads but the guy i bought them from said they were 1.94's I am not sure guess I will have to measure that
http://www.worldcastings.com/product...ron-heads.htmlLast edited by LURCHBIOTCH; 09-01-2009 at 10:52 AM.
-
09-01-2009 11:43 AM #24
Hmmmm, the tech sheet you linked says 2.02"/1.60".
This KD-912 will be easy on the wallet. You can use it to disassemble the heads as well as use it to change valve springs with the heads on.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html
You don't necessarily need shop air to change the springs with the motor assembled. Remove the spark plug, roll the piston down in the bore a little and fill the space above the piston with clothesline rope fed through the spark plug hole. Roll the piston back up to shmush (technical term ) the rope up against the valve heads and remove the springs.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
-
09-01-2009 01:25 PM #25
I've heard this trick before and know folks that have been successful at it but I have also heard there can be risk of cutting the rope if it manages to get caught by a valve or coiled too much below the plug hole... something to think about. The shop air approach is "safer" in my opinion.
-ChrisPaint don't make it no faster
-
09-01-2009 02:46 PM #26
-
09-01-2009 08:22 PM #27
Welcome to Club Hot Rod! The premier site for
everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more.
- » Members from all over the US and the world!
- » Help from all over the world for your questions
- » Build logs for you and all members
- » Blogs
- » Image Gallery
- » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts!
YES! I want to register an account for free right now! p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show
If your wife has a friend that annoys you don't tell your wife to stop being friends with her. Just casually mention how pretty she is... .
the Official CHR joke page duel