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Thread: GM Engine?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    iMechanic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    M0re Pics

     



    More Pics!!!
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  2. #17
    iMechanic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Moooorre Picss

     



    LAst Few !!
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  3. #18
    iMechanic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hey guys sry the pix are soo big, I took them with my phone last night and fell asleep before I got a chance to resize them! Lemme know what u guys think or if anythings missing!

    Carl

  4. #19
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    Engine casting number:3970010
    Is your basic 1968-79 2 or 4 bolt main 350.
    That engine is not a stock engine. I believe it was stored in the crate but it's not what came in it. Don't think any stock engine came with windage tray bolts on the crank mains.

    Piston # 3959456
    TRW pistons for a 1970 LT1 350
    Last edited by dmw56; 10-07-2009 at 09:59 AM.
    Livin' on Route 66

  5. #20
    iMechanic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Are you sure? I mean it was wrapped in gm plastic, even had a paper tag attatched to the crank when I first opened it that said gm and the 396921. Any other expert opinions? I mean I thought 3970010 was kind of a general casting number, don't any of those other numbers mean anything?

  6. #21
    glennsexton's Avatar
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    I think that you probably have a 1969 to early 70’s 350. Look close at the casting number and it’s probably 3970010. That would match with the crank, i.e., 1182 is a forged crankshaft (3.480 stroke) for a 350 that uses a two piece rear seal.

    Great motor to build. Have fun.

    Regards,
    Glenn
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  7. #22
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    Well I see we're all on the same page, re; 350 - however, this is the same casting number used in the 370HP Corvette - that and the forged crank tells me it's not a "plain Jane", rather a good solid high performance base.
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  8. #23
    iMechanic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    It is 3970010 def, so ur telling me I have a brand new 1969 corvette motor!?!? How F!?$ing lucky am I? Are we sure on this!? If that's true aren't these hard to come by, ESP all original brand new?

  9. #24
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    If I'm not mistaken, the LT1's came with a sheet metal windage tray. That would explain the longer cap bolts....
    http://www.poltergeist.us/page/Elky/...pump_tray.html
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  10. #25
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    The casting number was used on a lot of motors....including 2bbl trucks. Look on the pad that is just in front of the passenger cylinder head...look for a two letter code that is stamped, not cast.

    The windage tray bolts are factory on some motors including a DZ motor out of a Z/28 and a 70 LT1. The pop up pistons are also a plus. However, these could have been added. In the early 70's, a new Z/28 partial engine assy was about $400 at the dealers. If you have a forged crank, the crank is worth more than that now.

    Your motor could be either a 3" stroke or a 3.48" stroke motor....it is in such corroded shape that it probably will not turn over so you can measure the stroke.

    Get the letter code....unfortunately, some replacement engines did not have a letter code stamped on the pad......

  11. #26
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    Well, that's what it would appear to be - In any case, you have a good foundation. I would strongly recommend ditching the timing set and installing double roller type. I have never been a big fan of the nylon gear that GM used to quiet things down a bit. The come apart and especially after sitting as long as this one has, I'd swap that out.

    As to earlier post, re; windage tray bolts - another HP indicator. I too have seen them on 302 DZ motors and HO 327's.

    All good.
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  12. #27
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    From the looks of the responses, we're all a bit excited for you!!

    Now somebody please re-size the pictures before I throw up!
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  13. #28
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    Here are the first 5 Glenn....continued on another post.....
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  14. #29
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    didn't work....posted the smaller pics side by side....so the whole mess was still too wide....someone else want to take a crack at it??
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  15. #30
    iMechanic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    sry again about the pic size, ill re do them when i get home.... i just wanted to get them on asap... anyway, im in the process of cleaning up the motor, the rust you saw isnt deep at all... if i wet a shop rag and rub it comes right off....anyone ever use EVAPORUST?

    anyway the 2 digit STAMPED number you are talking about, what does that tell us and where would it be again? i looked didnt see anything more than i listed, which were about 7 or 8 numbers, its none of those?

    any other info from anyone would be greatly appreciated...

    also i dont mean to sound greedy, but i noticed someone gave a kid a list of parts to complete his motor... no one has to go crazy, but after i clean it up, id like to get it completed and have no idea where to start as far as parts... these are way diff than the jap motors im used to..like glennsexton said after sitting for 30 years im sure there are other things i should check/replace besides the timing set... any suggestions please...

    i bought a haynes small block chevy rebuild manual but its very vague... any suggestions on heads/cams/manifold/carbs and where to shop for decent prices would be AWSOME!! YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN GREAT HELP SO FAR!

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