Thread: GM Engine?

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Use the pages of that Haynes manual to cover the bottom of your birdcage and buy the real deal....
http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/p...76%26yr%3D1970

You may also want to procure this offering from David Vizard. It's good for an elementary introduction to rebuilding the small block Chevy....
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Yo...4955766&sr=1-5

Before you purchase even ONE PART, sit down and decide what you want the motor to do and what vehicle you'll install it in. Any motor you build needs not only to be built to a combination of parts in the motor, but needs also to match up with the vehicle and intended purpose.

For instance, those are pop-up pistons. With 64 cc combustion chambers, the static compression ratio would be around 11.0:1. This is incompatible with today's pump fuels if you plan to run on the street, so a better choice would be larger chambers to lower the static compression ratio down to somewhere between 9.5 and 10.5, depending on the rpm range you want to build to. Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY A CAM until you have everything figured out. The torque converter should be the last thing you buy. The cam should be next to last.

Everyone starts at the wrong end of the car anyway. Start with rear gears and rear suspension, then work your way forward. It's OK to build the motor first, but you should have a plan to coordinate the rear with whatever parts you put in the motor. I'll repeat. Sit down an write out a plan for the vehicle and the motor, then run it past our panel of experts before you ever buy one piece.

Thanks so much! I'll def take a look at those books! I might use the haynes manual to start the kindling in my fire pit, since I don't have a parrot!

I haven't completely decided what to do yet, ESP considering knowing what I have now. Like I said my friend was going to sell me a camaro chassis but it's in really bad shape and would take a lot of time/money to restore. I'd love to build it but I just spent all my "car money" for the year on my 2001 mr2 spyder. I'd love to throw it in there! Doubt I'd ever find a tranny that would fit in that car though. I did see a mustang 5.0 fit in a miata once though so anything is possible!! I set the mr2 up to drift orig. But then went towards street/track by the time I was done. With the exception of the camaro(which isn't really an option anyway)I really don't have anythig to put it in right now...whatever I put it in though I'd prob use it on pump gas. If it's capable of 370hp+ though I'd want to squeeze what I can out of it and also keep the Rpms up.

Do any of you run fuel injection on these? Is there adv/disadvant of using carbs over f.I?

So any other codes I should look for or are we pretty certain what the motor is? I'm still gonna resize the pics in case anyone couldn't see them clearly..

Production motors have a letter/number combination STAMPED into the block deck surface on the very front passenger side of the block. It is doubtful that yours has this stamp, since we're pretty sure it did not come from GM mounted in a production automobile, but take a good look anyway.

As dmw56 said, the block casting number 3970010 nails it as a '68-'79 production block. That means that you probably would not be able to put the motor in an '80 or later body, depending on how ruthless the emission Nazis are in N.J. You could, however, put it into any year or make body that is earlier than they test for in your state. For instance, in Arizona, you can put ANY motor in ANY '66 or earlier vehicle because there is no emission testing for a '66 or earlier vehicle. Find out where the cutoff is for N.J. You need to address this before you do anything else.

EFI is as good as it gets from mileage/emissions standpoints. Some on this board know that stuff inside and out, can make good power with it and can counsel you on how to do it. Personally, I don't have a clue and don't want to know. I'm lost in the 50's/60's.

I kinda wanted to stick with a carb anyway I was just curious, I'm sure fitting a performance efi system would be much more expensive as well. I don't know the nj cutoff date off hand I'll check though.

As far as the block itself, you think sitting that long would have changed any tolerences in Lets say pistons, sleeves ect? I want to clean it up and get it free spinning asap. Like I was saying before I have a good 5-6 gallons of evaporust, seems to get good reviews online, haven't used it yet though. I hope all the internals are ok. I'll try to locate the stamp this weekend I gotta get the good ole hoist and engine stand out of storage. Anyone know offhand the size/thread bolts I need for this block to mount it to the stand?

3/8 NC. Measure the length of your bosses where the bolts go through and add 1/2"-5/8" for threading into the block. If you can't find the right length, buy the next longer bolt and shim it under the head with flat washers.

Thanks techinspector!! Uve been very helpful today!
I guess the first thing I'm going to have to do is lower the comp ratio to use this thing on premium pump gas then, I need to buy those books. Someone recommended ditching the timing set with the 30 year old nylon gear and switch to double roller, guess that wouldn't be a bad first purchase huh?

Originally Posted by iMechanic

Thanks techinspector!! Uve been very helpful today!
I guess the first thing I'm going to have to do is lower the comp ratio to use this thing on premium pump gas then, I need to buy those books. Someone recommended ditching the timing set with the 30 year old nylon gear and switch to double roller, guess that wouldn't be a bad first purchase huh?

And when you buy the timing set make sure it's a pre 72 set.

Edelbrock makes a 70cc chamber aluminum head. I don't know what that would drop the compression down to but you can run a little more compression with aluminum heads. I'd try to keep those TRW pistons. You can also get 76cc Chevy heads that would drop compression even more. Look for casting # 3973487, 3973493, 3998993 and 3998997. These are intermediate to high performance heads.

Ok I will check it out. Do you think a lot of what I need will float by on the parts for sale section of this forum or should I eBay it or shop retail? I'd rather know the parts I'm getting are legit, but still kinda on a budget, for now at least....

Originally Posted by iMechanic

Thanks techinspector!! Uve been very helpful today!
I guess the first thing I'm going to have to do is lower the comp ratio to use this thing on premium pump gas then, I need to buy those books. Someone recommended ditching the timing set with the 30 year old nylon gear and switch to double roller, guess that wouldn't be a bad first purchase huh?

Don't do anything or buy anything until you have an iron-clad, written-in-ink plan of what you're going to do with the motor and the car.

When you get to the point of buying parts, I would recommend this timing set....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-3100/

I have a suspicion that to use what you have (all forged parts) to advantage, you'll end up with a high-rpm Saturday Night Special and you'll want a good timing set.

I'll even go out on a limb here and suggest the heads that ought to be on that short block....Brodix KC-IK-210....

Again, buy nothing yet, I'm just bench racing and these are just my opinions. Others may have better ideas.....

Hey guys.. Sorry to bump this Soo many years later, but I'm still trying to figure out what this engine is.. The project was put on hold for a while due to financial reasons, but after some guidance from a mechanic friend, I was told about a stamped code number on the block that I didn't see due to dirt on the block.. It reads "CEB1330".. Along with the casting #3970010 does this help shed any light on what I might have here!?

NO, you still need to look on the pad that is immediately in front of where the passenger side cylinder head goes. Will be a number starting with a letter, some numbers, and then either one, two or three letters. These last letters tell what body it was installed into, what horsepower, what transmission, what carbureton it had, what emissions it had.

Originally Posted by robot

NO, you still need to look on the pad that is immediately in front of where the passenger side cylinder head goes. Will be a number starting with a letter, some numbers, and then either one, two or three letters. These last letters tell what body it was installed into, what horsepower, what transmission, what carbureton it had, what emissions it had.

That's exactly what he told me, and that's what is stamped there.. "CEB1330"..

Hmmmm
The sequence we are looking for is a stamped sequence (not cast into the block) that has three sections:
First is a single letter that designates the engine casting plant....usually F for Flint MI, V for Flint MI or T for Towawanda, NY
Then, there are numbers that tell the casting date. That number can be three or four digits long since they often didnt use a leading zero for months. Last, there is a letter series that can be one letter, two letters, or three letters. This last letter sequence is what we are looking for.

In your example of CEB1330, there is no suffix and too many prefix lietters...There is no "C" engine plant, no "E" engine plant nor no "B" engine plant. The 1330 doesnt jive because it says 13th month, 30th day.

piston 3959456 may be a 4" bore x 3.48" stroke piston with a 0.100" pop up, 11:1 compression. Is your piston domed?