Thread: GM Engine?

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Hey Guys, here are some pics.....by the way the other side of the crate did say "Partial Engine Group .033"... its everything you said it was Robot...

The main number off the block is "26GM 3070010"

other random numbers on the block that i found include....
"F 101, 010, 020, H38, 371,338

Pistons Read 3959456

crank has GMT 11, and what looks like 1182? take a look at the pics and lemme know what you think! i gotta get to work! thanks guys!

More Pics!!!

LAst Few !!

Hey guys sry the pix are soo big, I took them with my phone last night and fell asleep before I got a chance to resize them! Lemme know what u guys think or if anythings missing!

Carl

Engine casting number:3970010
Is your basic 1968-79 2 or 4 bolt main 350.
That engine is not a stock engine. I believe it was stored in the crate but it's not what came in it. Don't think any stock engine came with windage tray bolts on the crank mains.

Piston # 3959456
TRW pistons for a 1970 LT1 350

Are you sure? I mean it was wrapped in gm plastic, even had a paper tag attatched to the crank when I first opened it that said gm and the 396921. Any other expert opinions? I mean I thought 3970010 was kind of a general casting number, don't any of those other numbers mean anything?

I think that you probably have a 1969 to early 70’s 350. Look close at the casting number and it’s probably 3970010. That would match with the crank, i.e., 1182 is a forged crankshaft (3.480 stroke) for a 350 that uses a two piece rear seal.

Great motor to build. Have fun.

Regards,
Glenn

Well I see we're all on the same page, re; 350 - however, this is the same casting number used in the 370HP Corvette - that and the forged crank tells me it's not a "plain Jane", rather a good solid high performance base.

It is 3970010 def, so ur telling me I have a brand new 1969 corvette motor!?!? How F!?$ing lucky am I? Are we sure on this!? If that's true aren't these hard to come by, ESP all original brand new?

If I'm not mistaken, the LT1's came with a sheet metal windage tray. That would explain the longer cap bolts....
http://www.poltergeist.us/page/Elky/...pump_tray.html

The casting number was used on a lot of motors....including 2bbl trucks. Look on the pad that is just in front of the passenger cylinder head...look for a two letter code that is stamped, not cast.

The windage tray bolts are factory on some motors including a DZ motor out of a Z/28 and a 70 LT1. The pop up pistons are also a plus. However, these could have been added. In the early 70's, a new Z/28 partial engine assy was about $400 at the dealers. If you have a forged crank, the crank is worth more than that now.

Your motor could be either a 3" stroke or a 3.48" stroke motor....it is in such corroded shape that it probably will not turn over so you can measure the stroke.

Get the letter code....unfortunately, some replacement engines did not have a letter code stamped on the pad......

Here are the first 5 Glenn....continued on another post.....

didn't work....posted the smaller pics side by side....so the whole mess was still too wide....someone else want to take a crack at it??

sry again about the pic size, ill re do them when i get home.... i just wanted to get them on asap... anyway, im in the process of cleaning up the motor, the rust you saw isnt deep at all... if i wet a shop rag and rub it comes right off....anyone ever use EVAPORUST?

anyway the 2 digit STAMPED number you are talking about, what does that tell us and where would it be again? i looked didnt see anything more than i listed, which were about 7 or 8 numbers, its none of those?

any other info from anyone would be greatly appreciated...

also i dont mean to sound greedy, but i noticed someone gave a kid a list of parts to complete his motor... no one has to go crazy, but after i clean it up, id like to get it completed and have no idea where to start as far as parts... these are way diff than the jap motors im used to..like glennsexton said after sitting for 30 years im sure there are other things i should check/replace besides the timing set... any suggestions please...

i bought a haynes small block chevy rebuild manual but its very vague... any suggestions on heads/cams/manifold/carbs and where to shop for decent prices would be AWSOME!! YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN GREAT HELP SO FAR!

Use the pages of that Haynes manual to cover the bottom of your birdcage and buy the real deal....
http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/p...76%26yr%3D1970

You may also want to procure this offering from David Vizard. It's good for an elementary introduction to rebuilding the small block Chevy....
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Yo...4955766&sr=1-5

Before you purchase even ONE PART, sit down and decide what you want the motor to do and what vehicle you'll install it in. Any motor you build needs not only to be built to a combination of parts in the motor, but needs also to match up with the vehicle and intended purpose.

For instance, those are pop-up pistons. With 64 cc combustion chambers, the static compression ratio would be around 11.0:1. This is incompatible with today's pump fuels if you plan to run on the street, so a better choice would be larger chambers to lower the static compression ratio down to somewhere between 9.5 and 10.5, depending on the rpm range you want to build to. Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY A CAM until you have everything figured out. The torque converter should be the last thing you buy. The cam should be next to last.

Everyone starts at the wrong end of the car anyway. Start with rear gears and rear suspension, then work your way forward. It's OK to build the motor first, but you should have a plan to coordinate the rear with whatever parts you put in the motor. I'll repeat. Sit down an write out a plan for the vehicle and the motor, then run it past our panel of experts before you ever buy one piece.