Thread: Rebuilding my first 350, need some advice.

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hey guys, My name is Josh, Im new here. I have a stupid question but give me a break, this is my first rebuild haha. I just bought a 1973, 350 that needs to be rebuilt. I want to build it up a little so I can drop it into my 1970 chevy shortbed. I bought a rebuilt kit that comes with everything new except for a crank and pushrods. Now, I ordered it with a bigger cam and im not sure if i need just stock pushrods and a stock crank? Or longer pushrods? or what. I just want to be sure that if I get stock replacemenet pushrods and crank they will work with the bigger cam. Thanks. Josh

Not sure as to what you got but it should be fine. If you need to know for sure tho call whoevetr you purchase the kit from.

Usually the camshafts that will not use stock pushrods, will not come in kits.

The true engine builders on here would be concerned about getting valvetrain geometry correct and all that, and I know in my heart they are correct and respect their talents. But for what you are doing, and what I usually do, your stock parts will be fine. I guess if you mill the head and deck the block it is best to put in slightly shorter push rods to compensate, but 90% of us never do and things work out ok.

Have you had your crank checked to see if it needs polished or turned? That might be one thing to do. A local machine shop can tell you for sure and it isn't that much to have those chores done.

There was a series that one of the hot rod magazines did years ago where they took junkyard engines (I think a Ford 351 and Chevy 350) and did a ring and bearing overhaul on them and then proceeded to put speed goodies on them to see how much hp they could wring out of them. There was an outcry from the guys who really build engines well because they said the magazine was setting a bad example by Mickey Mousing motors together. However, I understood what the magazine was trying to do........they were putting an engine together just the way most of us guys on a budget do when we aren't looking for maximum efficiency. Sometimes we have to do things that fit within our means and skills.

Bottom line, I think you will be fine doing what you have outlined.

Don

Oh, I just noticed this is your first post........Welcome aboard.

Concur with the above - if the push rods are nice and straight (roll them on a nice flat surface) then they should be okay. Make sure you clean them up real good and blow compressed air through them (wear your safety glasses!).

I'm thinking that you're having your original crank checked, and if needed, turned at a local machine shop where the block is being cleaned and prepared?

thinks he means the connecting rods, not pushrods.

Josh, have an automotive machine shop check your crank and rods...they can remove your old pistons and put the new pistons on the rods after they check them for straightness.

mike in tucson

No I meant pushrods haha. Ive done alot of work on engines V8 and 4 cylinders. Ive just never done a full rebuild. I was thinking the stock ones would be fine. I am gonna get new ones (stock replacements) and a new oem crank just to be safe. Thanks for the help guys. Josh

O, guys i got another question (big surprise huh?) lol. I think the block and cylinders are in good shape but would it be a good idea to get it just honed out and maybe re sleeved? Any other suggestions I should do before I start throwing my money and time at it? haha.

Your machinist will be your guide on what needs to be done to make the block seal well. He may determine it just needs a hone, or it might need a 10, 20,30, or even 40 overbore to get it right. Have you already bought the pistons? If so, did you get standard or oversized ones?

Don

No I havent bought the pistons yet. I was thinking of doing a .30 over bore anyway? A little extra and a little something so its not just a "350" U know? If I do that, the pistons are the only thing I need to change right?