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Thread: Push it off a CLIFF..... Engine Problems?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    dlotraf33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ted dehaan View Post
    maybe its time to go back to the basics the first thing to check as in any electrical problem is powers and grounds the coil needs full bat. voltage in about 13volts the wire from the coil to the dist. goes to the module that is just a switching transistor it turns off and on the ground when it is on it allows power to flow through the coil to charge it then the pick up tells the module to open the magnetic field collapses and you have spark then the pick pu tells the module to close and the process is repeated so if you have full bat. voltage at the coil it is time to look at the ground make sure the dist. is grounded to the eng. and the eng has a good ground back to the battery remember a good dvom is your friend.......ted p.s. there is no magic
    Yes Sir E, Ted, thats why I have 2 and dig amp probe for both ac and dc. I did check voltage to coil, dist, as well as dist ground and engine ground after problem occurs, ie right when engine shuts off, and is still hot and won't run. all that looks good. If I can muster up the energy in this hot garage I will swap dist with known good functioning unit. Down side, that will still leave me guessing between module and coil. Probably will see if they will send me module, package different than std gm. That way I'll have a spare.

    Oh BTW I have chased so many grounding problems over the years, I have ground cables from engine to frame, body to frame, bat to frame, when I was a kid seamed like those extra ground straps never got put back on after an engine swap, now I know the factory put them there for good reason.

  2. #17
    Rrumbler is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    My money's on the module. Good luck; these things are a real pain, make your white hair whiter and your bald spot balder.
    Rrumbler, Aka: Hey you, "Old School", Hairy, and other unsavory monickers.

    Twistin' and bangin' on stuff for about sixty or so years; beat up and busted, but not entirely dead - yet.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rrumbler View Post
    My money's on the module. Good luck; these things are a real pain, make your white hair whiter and your bald spot balder.
    Yeah that's what it will probably be. If it was a std gm, I'd just go get one and see. I've got other gm HEI's so a spare ,(if that was not it), would be good to have anyway. I picked up the BFH once, but put it down. I've gotten old enough to know, whatever I break, I'll have to fix. But a couple of days ago it probably would have felt good to get a few good swings in...........

  4. #19
    ted dehaan's Avatar
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    ya know I just had an idea maybe the pick up is too far from the reluctor maybe check the pick up output unplug the module crank the motor and the pick up should produce about 0.15v that's one and a half of one tenth of a volt I just don't think its the module of course I could be wrong....ted
    I'LL KEEP MY PROPERTY, MY MONEY, MY FREEDOM, AND MY GUNS, AND YOU CAN KEEP THE CHANGE------ THE PROBLEM WITH LIBERALISM IS SOONER OR LATER YOU RUN OUT OF OTHER PEOPLES MONEY margaret thacher 1984

  5. #20
    dlotraf33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ted dehaan View Post
    ya know I just had an idea maybe the pick up is too far from the reluctor maybe check the pick up output unplug the module crank the motor and the pick up should produce about 0.15v that's one and a half of one tenth of a volt I just don't think its the module of course I could be wrong....ted
    I don't think it is either. But with that said, since I cant go to the local KMART auto supply it probably will be. Electronics can do goofy stuff. At first my thought it's the trigger, should be on or off, but with electronics, and I'm sure chineese electronics you never know. I will check that. I am the kind who likes to know what is wrong and why, not just well I put this part in and it works now. Besides if your guess is correct and I order the module it won't fix it. I was going to just go ahead and order one, to have, but I waited a little too late and guess they were closed. Will check your idea out tonite. I didn't touch it yesterday, too hot, and I needed to cool off some more, before I get stupid and hit somthing.

  6. #21
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    WaaLaa, talked to company I bought dist from, they are sending me a module I don't need. Put vac gauge on, no drop in vac before it died. Coil seamed a little warm. So I put coil in cup of ice on intake manifold, ran, and ran, and ran, and ran till I shut off, Restarted ran, ran, ran. After all the conflicting info from coil mfg's on ballast resistors, accel said under 1.0 ohms ballast, over no. This coil is 1.5, I checked it myself, although not hot. So the first thing I replaced, is still bad, although worse than original, until that one was over 1 year old it would only do this after driving a long time when it was hot outside. I guess I'll put a ballast resistor on coil only, until such time as I can find a good coil, made in the USA.................

  7. #22
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    I had a problem very similar to that on a 77 Chevy Blazer that I owned. I built the truck from the ground up. I use the HEI distributor, new rotor and cap. It left me sitting on the side of the road many times.
    Turned out that the rotor, even though new, was losing contact between the center contact on top and the brass tip. I refused to believe it was the rotor because it was new. New doesn't mean anything. I finally found the problem with it when I took a used one from a distributor and replaced it. It looked perfect right up to the time I threw it in a trash can.
    Ed in Jeffersonville, IN
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurst01 View Post
    I had a problem very similar to that on a 77 Chevy Blazer that I owned. I built the truck from the ground up. I use the HEI distributor, new rotor and cap. It left me sitting on the side of the road many times.
    Turned out that the rotor, even though new, was losing contact between the center contact on top and the brass tip. I refused to believe it was the rotor because it was new. New doesn't mean anything. I finally found the problem with it when I took a used one from a distributor and replaced it. It looked perfect right up to the time I threw it in a trash can.
    I finally found the problem. Turned out to be a fuse contact problem. I put a volt meter on coil and watched voltage drop till it shut off, and back tracked it to fuse. Blade type and the contact where fuse plugs in had a broken contact on one side. It would get hot and voltage would drop. But it cooled off so quickly and voltage returned that when checked it was normal. This one drove me crazy.

  9. #24
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    good you found it and all that trash talk about Accel was unneeded!!!!( I agree with the China and Mexaco garbage)

    Another area from back in earlier days---some coils couldn't be mounted vertical because of the oil inside wouldn't cover top windings and they would get hot and go to crap--had to be mounted sideways or at least angled

  10. #25
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    dlotraf33, Glad you found the problem. I was getting a little concerned about your sanity. I was needing to try out the new fan I installed and was coming to your rescue. I had a similar problem after I finishedt the 34 and the module was the problem (mallory HEI). When installing the exhaust system I forgot to (stupid) disconnect the battery and the welding ground fried the module. It would run until hot and then leave me sitting,after cooling it would start up. Like you it took a while to find the problem. We just need to keep checking these guys out on the forum as they are smart,smart.
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  11. #26
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    Great diagnostic thread. Glad problem is solved. Electrical stuff drives me nuts!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    good you found it and all that trash talk about Accel was unneeded!!!!( I agree with the China and Mexaco garbage)

    Another area from back in earlier days---some coils couldn't be mounted vertical because of the oil inside wouldn't cover top windings and they would get hot and go to crap--had to be mounted sideways or at least angled
    I suppose accel is no worse than any other. I am just so tired of the import junk, everything from can openers to fans, mine just went out again and its 97 in garage, this probably did not help my patience. I know we would have to pay for for quality us products. But I am ready. My bigest irk thru the whole process is the fact the people who represent the mfg, tech support, do not seam to even know their product. Oh well, thats what you guys are for. I am just glad that issue is fixed, cause now I am fighting ac on my 66, although I think I have that nailed. Thanks to all..........

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Dalton View Post
    dlotraf33, Glad you found the problem. I was getting a little concerned about your sanity. I was needing to try out the new fan I installed and was coming to your rescue. I had a similar problem after I finishedt the 34 and the module was the problem (mallory HEI). When installing the exhaust system I forgot to (stupid) disconnect the battery and the welding ground fried the module. It would run until hot and then leave me sitting,after cooling it would start up. Like you it took a while to find the problem. We just need to keep checking these guys out on the forum as they are smart,smart.
    No prob. Even the thought of help is great. You know how it is you get so fustrated you can't think straight. At least I have developed a slight ammount of patience. Back when I was 16 I had this GTO. Put plug wires on and could get no fire. Checked it all. Checked firing order 1843657, and if 7 are correct the 8th has to be in the right place, right. Well after I got so pissed I went inside and watched tv or somthing, I came back out and checked it for the 18th time. Did you guess? num 2 in coil and coil in num 2. Duhhhhhhhhh what a dumb a##. Fired right up. Live and learn. This one was tough cause the problem only presented itself for just a few seconds. I finally just watched that volt meter till it died. I guess the coil in icewater maybe just kept the amp draw so low the problem wouldn't present itself. Oh well thanks for the thoughts.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by stovens View Post
    Great diagnostic thread. Glad problem is solved. Electrical stuff drives me nuts!
    Yeah, I was really close to getting a visit from the guys in white coats with the net and straight jacket. How is yours comming along. I need to go back and check that thread, its been awhile since I have checked for updates. Well it's fixed so now its back to building a new dash, this one is number 3, maybe I'll be happy with this one. LOL......

  15. #30
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    I'm moving slowly sanding the pickup bed to bare metal. Then applying rust converter. I want to get it fairly smooth, then I'll redo my tail gate. Once all that is done I'll do little patches here and there and then paint the interior of the cab. Slow since I hate bodywork!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

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