Thread: Push it off a CLIFF..... Engine Problems?

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ya know I just had an idea maybe the pick up is too far from the reluctor maybe check the pick up output unplug the module crank the motor and the pick up should produce about 0.15v that's one and a half of one tenth of a volt I just don't think its the module of course I could be wrong....ted

Originally Posted by ted dehaan

ya know I just had an idea maybe the pick up is too far from the reluctor maybe check the pick up output unplug the module crank the motor and the pick up should produce about 0.15v that's one and a half of one tenth of a volt I just don't think its the module of course I could be wrong....ted

I don't think it is either. But with that said, since I cant go to the local KMART auto supply it probably will be. Electronics can do goofy stuff. At first my thought it's the trigger, should be on or off, but with electronics, and I'm sure chineese electronics you never know. I will check that. I am the kind who likes to know what is wrong and why, not just well I put this part in and it works now. Besides if your guess is correct and I order the module it won't fix it. I was going to just go ahead and order one, to have, but I waited a little too late and guess they were closed. Will check your idea out tonite. I didn't touch it yesterday, too hot, and I needed to cool off some more, before I get stupid and hit somthing.

WaaLaa, talked to company I bought dist from, they are sending me a module I don't need. Put vac gauge on, no drop in vac before it died. Coil seamed a little warm. So I put coil in cup of ice on intake manifold, ran, and ran, and ran, and ran till I shut off, Restarted ran, ran, ran. After all the conflicting info from coil mfg's on ballast resistors, accel said under 1.0 ohms ballast, over no. This coil is 1.5, I checked it myself, although not hot. So the first thing I replaced, is still bad, although worse than original, until that one was over 1 year old it would only do this after driving a long time when it was hot outside. I guess I'll put a ballast resistor on coil only, until such time as I can find a good coil, made in the USA.................

I had a problem very similar to that on a 77 Chevy Blazer that I owned. I built the truck from the ground up. I use the HEI distributor, new rotor and cap. It left me sitting on the side of the road many times.
Turned out that the rotor, even though new, was losing contact between the center contact on top and the brass tip. I refused to believe it was the rotor because it was new. New doesn't mean anything. I finally found the problem with it when I took a used one from a distributor and replaced it. It looked perfect right up to the time I threw it in a trash can.

Originally Posted by Hurst01

I had a problem very similar to that on a 77 Chevy Blazer that I owned. I built the truck from the ground up. I use the HEI distributor, new rotor and cap. It left me sitting on the side of the road many times.
Turned out that the rotor, even though new, was losing contact between the center contact on top and the brass tip. I refused to believe it was the rotor because it was new. New doesn't mean anything. I finally found the problem with it when I took a used one from a distributor and replaced it. It looked perfect right up to the time I threw it in a trash can.

I finally found the problem. Turned out to be a fuse contact problem. I put a volt meter on coil and watched voltage drop till it shut off, and back tracked it to fuse. Blade type and the contact where fuse plugs in had a broken contact on one side. It would get hot and voltage would drop. But it cooled off so quickly and voltage returned that when checked it was normal. This one drove me crazy.