Thread: 450-550 hp 383

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Whats the best way to build a pump gas 383 stroker that is in the 450-550 hp range while still trying to be as low of an investment as possible without sacrificing quality?

This motor will be going in an 87 Chevy 4wd pickup used for mud bogging and mud racing.

Originally Posted by Laird006

Whats the best way to build a pump gas 383 stroker that is in the 450-550 hp range while still trying to be as low of an investment as possible without sacrificing quality?
This motor will be going in an 87 Chevy 4wd pickup used for mud bogging and mud racing.

There will be others with different ideas, but I would say that as soon as you get your head wrapped around 500 bucks for cam and lifters, 500 bucks for pistons, 500 bucks for rods and 500 bucks for a crank, we can move on to block mods and oiling to complete the short block.

Low investment 450 to 550 HP
Ain't gonna happen!!!

I had a 383 500 plus hp once, and I think I had 5K plus invested
and I did all the work except for boring and head work, plus I had
a block to start with........That thing would pull a stump out of the
ground with the stick and a low gear in the back. $$=HP

I suggest you do not accept brand name strokers at their face value.While I research a number of different brands for my 383 build,I am finding a whole lot of junk being sold.While on the onset you see stroker kits that are really cheap,it is without doubt exactly that,really cheap parts that in many cases require more machine work to get them even usable or reliable and that extra work in many cases goes beyond buying the better quality parts would have cost in the first place.Lots of import parts are intertwined with stroker kits and many are out of the box substandard.

Take the time to form your plan for the build knowing what you are buying.Don't get confused by buying race parts that by design are built for short term use at high output,but are not for packing miles on a engine or in a normally used RPM range.So define exactly what you want it to do for you and be practical or sensible about it.Think it threw what after you decide on a combo what it would be like to deal with it on a daily basis.Sometimes smaller is better,smarter and
more enjoyable.

All the yrs of development still hasn't changed the following:How fast do you want to go and how much do you want to spend??.

i built many engines .some for mud some for hill and hole .and many other forms of racing and stuff you take out on nice days and beat the hell out of it . there is tricks over the years that can help BUT you can not go cheap on valve train parts . and i would never run a HYD cam in a mud runner.good machine work is a good start .some guys say there PROS but still just do not get it... or do not care .i just took down a HI rent race engine and the valve springs were sliding off the spring shims cutting in the heads. the valve seals were holding the springs they shimed them past the spring cups engine was running at 8000 around the track and the valve springs were trying to flip over so the $300 valve springs were junk one had a small amount of bend from this

You get what you pay for. Horsepower ,torque in this case, is not cheap.

Hmm – if I was going to build a 383 and wanted to know for sure that it would be in the 450-500 horsepower range, I’d do the following:

Start with a GM 4 bolt block. I still like the 2 piece seals, but others prefer the one piece rear main – hot tank and make absolutely certain the block is solid – then bead blast the block. All machine work at a competent shop where they will know to use deck plates for the bore and honing. Mains also must be checked and to be sure – I’d ask for an align hone or bore as necessary. Have the machine shop install brass freeze plugs and all new oil galley plugs as well. Buy the best engine bearings (Mahle / Clevite or similar) and have the machine shop install your cam bearings.

Scrub the block and coat inside with Glyptal. Put the block on a good engine stand and paint the outside with the best high temp engine paint Eastwood sells.

New forged steel crankshaft with a 3.750 stroke – don’t go cheap – and new H-Beam connecting rods With ARP bolts and bushed pins. Use new forged pistons from Mahle, KB or other top tier. Have your machinist install the pistons on the rods. Top tier rings (like Hastings) need to be checked and in all likelihood filed to assure perfect fit. All of the rotating assembly needs to be balanced (we’re looking for 450-500 HP here!)

The above is just the short block and to do all this right will be pushing $4-5K. Heads, cam, induction and all the ancillary bits (HEI distributor, Meling oil pump - Milodin pan, water pump, new head studs, timing set, headers, gaskets, etc.) will easily add another $3-4K. (As Pat mentioned, solid cam would be in order so valve train components could be even more.)

In my opinion – done correctly using the services of a competent machinist where necessary and putting the rest together myself - 500 horsepower from a 383 will set you back $7-9,000. Again – my opinion of what it would cost in “my neck of the woods”.

Good Luck,
Glenn

just did a fresh up on a hi rpm storker 351 was over 4500. 2700 just in machine work so 10.000 would not be off the mark for a nice engine with good parts

After research my shopping list is:

Howards crank

Scat forged 3/8's ARP'ed stroker clearance rods

King bearings

Mahle uncoated pistons (thanks Pat)

RHS cast iron heads