Thread: Solid lifter valve adjustments..help please

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Thanks for looking and for any advice you have to offer. I have just gotten a valve job and was pre-assembly when I got to thinking about the valve adjustements. I think I have solid lifters...not sure 100%. From the outside, it looks like what you would see in a hydraulic lifter, but when you take the retainer ring out and dissassemble it there is no spring or ball valve or anything like that. Just a small cup and a disk with a hole in it. Is this what a standard solid lifter looks like? I have never had one before. Anyway, this engine is not stock and I did not build it and I have no idea what cam it has or what the back lash should be. Any ideas on where to start and how to adjust the valves. Engine is a 1960 283 from a vette with the 290 HP FI option...unknown cam and I have 327 double hump heads on it, Any advice is very welcome and thanks again.

Check for part numbers or casting numbers on the cam. Some have the company name and grind number stamped on the rear of the cam. Check with the guy you got the motor from and see what it is. Hard to advise on valve adjustments without knowing what it is.

Blue Racer/Wolverine makes a solid lifter that from the outside looks like a hydraulic lifter - but is actually a Solid lifter. If theres no spring and plunger inside, your lookin' at a solid lifter. I say that to a 99% certainty - however, I must allow for any new products in 2004 that I'm not aware of. I'm pretty sure BlueRacer has a website, they should have pictures and internal breakdowns of their products.

From that vintage and model 283, it should have come stock with a solid lifter cam. Try starting with the factory settings. If I recall correctly they used to call it a Duntov cam or a 30-30 cam and the .030-.030 was the valve lash. I have not known too many small blocks that called for less than .022. If you are not able to find a actual specs, you could start adjusting both the intake and exhaust at .030, then work your way tighter .002 at a time until you get down to .024. See where it runs the best. I would adjust the intakes first then the exhaust. Often times the exhaust spec will be .002 or .004 looser than the intakes. This is to allow for greater heat expansion of the metal on the exhaust side. In most cases adjust them with the motor warmed up.

Pat