Thread: SBC 350 build

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just another good reason to go roller cam

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

just another good reason to go roller cam

After doing a non roller, all I can say is that I will never intentionally build one without a roller cam again....soo much less stress and worry...still worry about it after the break in on mine.


Roller all the way!


Tech brings up a very good point.....and that is to try and get a one piece rear main seal block already set up for a roller cam.

You might be money ahead doing this as those engines are pretty cheap from the boneyard and you could leave your running engine in the truck untill the new one is built, no double engine removal then.......then use the parts from the old block such as intake etc, whatever you plan to re use.

you want to deck the block when you know the CH of the pistons your going to buy or have C.H is compression heigth pin center line to the flat part of the piston .i messure the deck off the BHJ tru plate .i seen decks up and down hill and off on angle from side to side .the BHJ tool is centered thu main s and cam bores this gets the block back to were it needs to be .not doing this your building a block no better then gm or the maker of the block .i have seen blocks off over 018 from side to side from main to cam to deck .when i get the deck were it needs to be then i put the bores 90 off the deck .this is the only way to build one.in photo you can see the part of the BHJ thru deck the angle this what you set up the cutting head to so then your true .push rods . heads .intake . piston bore are as good as they can be now that you have some place to start thats true .some boring bars mount off deck and some off the oil pan rail .if deck or oil pan rails are off and they are .... your bores will be off that why i deck them first

If you have a running vehicle----then buy a machined block from someone---you can get late model roller blocks, dog bones, seal adapter(I bought all the billet adapters from K-tech for puting 2 pc seal cranks/pans on late blocks) and hold down plate( even used roller lifters)

I buy these blocks from 9 -18 at a time from a core supplier---its much simpler than cleaning up the oil/coolant mess from the customers engines brought in that aren/t drained properly.

If your interested PM me and I'll give you Corey's contact.

Jerry

PS You aren't very far from Pat----you should go pick up from him

I was actually thinking today about going to see my dad's buddy. He owns a truck wrecker and I could probably find a newer 350 that has a roller in it, in his yard and only pay about 100 bucks for it. I could get the block machined and still run the 350 that's in my truck now. Then I could build up the roller block a bit slower so I wouldn't be shelling out a ton of money all at once. And while the machine shop had the block, I'd get them to bore it .030 over too so I'd have a 355 I'm thinking this would be a better option for me as cash flow will not be the greatest once I have to put insurance on this thing and put gas in it. And after all that, I'll have a 2nd 350 block sitting around. I'm thinking this will be the route I take.

Originally Posted by Bowtiepickups

I was actually thinking today about going to see my dad's buddy. He owns a truck wrecker and I could probably find a newer 350 that has a roller in it, in his yard and only pay about 100 bucks for it. I could get the block machined and still run the 350 that's in my truck now. Then I could build up the roller block a bit slower so I wouldn't be shelling out a ton of money all at once. And while the machine shop had the block, I'd get them to bore it .030 over too so I'd have a 355 I'm thinking this would be a better option for me as cash flow will not be the greatest once I have to put insurance on this thing and put gas in it. And after all that, I'll have a 2nd 350 block sitting around. I'm thinking this will be the route I take.

Just keep in mind that you need the pistons for them to finish bore the block you bought.I does somewhat make more sense to buy a later yr roller engine over buying the conversion kits for the earlier engines.The thing with some of the earlier blocks they where a harder casting.


Hummm-now the next shoe that drops.Bought a roller engine for a build as you can,355 or 383??.

Originally Posted by 1gary

Just keep in mind that you need the pistons for them to finish bore the block you bought.


Hummm-now the next shoe that drops.Bought a roller engine for a build as you can,355 or 383??.

Noted. Thanks for reminding me of that. I guess they wouldn't be able to machine it to any kind of spec without them. Haha.

I'm thinking I'll pick up the roller engine, tear it down, grab a set of .030 over pistons and take that to the machine shop and get the rolling assembly set up. Then it's just a matter of buying top end pieces as I can afford them until I have everything bought but heads, then swap my vortecs with the comp springs over and drop it in. Should be a nice little 355.

Some times on a well worn engine it's better to trade in the core on a Re-maned Built Shorts Block . There was a Place out by me called the Chevy Shop . I sold that Guy a Few Short Block cores that needed to be Bored out . He had a Floor Full of Built up Short Blocks all Bagged up read to go . From Bored out 305's to 454 SB's 2-Bolts- 4-Bolts you name it . And for cheaper then it would Cost you to have one Built . 355 4-Bolt Mains with hyper Pistons Rebuilt Rods decked Aligned Bored with HV oil pump and Hardened Shaft $700.00 OEM Rollers and Early Gen 1 Blocks .

Originally Posted by tango

Some times on a well worn engine it's better to trade in the core on a Re-maned Built Shorts Block . There was a Place out by me called the Chevy Shop . I sold that Guy a Few Short Block cores that needed to be Bored out . He had a Floor Full of Built up Short Blocks all Bagged up read to go . From Bored out 305's to 454 SB's 2-Bolts- 4-Bolts you name it . And for cheaper then it would Cost you to have one Built . 355 4-Bolt Mains with hyper Pistons Rebuilt Rods decked Aligned Bored with HV oil pump and Hardened Shaft $700.00 OEM Rollers and Early Gen 1 Blocks .

You got to know you DO get what you pay for.Right???.The deals in the long run aren't.Just because a guy buys bulk in re-buildable blocks,doesn't mean he provides the same quality at a cheaper price.Buy a Jasper if that is what your thinking is.

Chevy Bob Built Engines for Many-Many Years . He also Ran a Speed Shop out of that Location . Because of all the Parts He Bought . He could Pass on the Lower Prices to his Customers . Sure if you Needed a Forged Crank and Pistons maybe Studded Mains the Price went up . That man always was fair to us and his Shop Truck was a Testimony to his Work He always wanted to Race us 1gary you Need to Lighten up some If I Live Near you I would Build that 350 for your R.V it would work just Fine even with a Flat Tappet Camshaft COOL

Originally Posted by tango

Chevy Bob Built Engines for Many-Many Years . He also Ran a Speed Shop out of that Location . Because of all the Parts He Bought . He could Pass on the Lower Prices to his Customers . Sure if you Needed a Forged Crank and Pistons maybe Studded Mains the Price went up . That man always was fair to us and his Shop Truck was a Testimony to his Work He always wanted to Race us 1gary you Need to Lighten up some If I Live Near you I would Build that 350 for your R.V it would work just Fine even with a Flat Tappet Camshaft COOL

I'm sorry.I didn't explain to you after 40yrs in high performance engines I don't need arm chair glossy magazined paged mechanics help and least of all yours.A national event win in super gas and a number of local champs over 20 yrs to my credit.I know what you know about engines.You make it very evident in everything you say..............


But no more off topic subjects to this honest O/P's thread.I disagree with you about cheaper isn't just that.Cheaper.The concept is based on pure common business sense.A business that isn't different than any other just because it happens to be about engines.So the Jasper answer I gave leads me to believe is a better engine than your ref and therefor a better value.Of course production run package deals isn't what this forum is about.Right??.Yeah leave it as it is.I disagree with you.

with 40yrs in high performance engines your should know a Hell of a Lot more then you do . And there should be no reason you can't build your own Engine . Lets see some of them Race Car's you Talk about ?

Originally Posted by tango

with 40yrs in high performance engines your should know a Hell of a Lot more then you do . And there should be no reason you can't build your own Engine . Lets see some of them Race Car's you Talk about ?

Your not going to win this.That is if there is anything to win.One more post addressing me will be forwarded to Mods/Admins of the site.We are done.

Just a little update for everyone. I actually had a chance to talk with my dad about the truck. Turns out, the motor is out of a 90 something van. He said it has the 1-piece seal so the two of us came to the consensus that it is most likely in fact a roller block. Which puts a smile on my face to say the least That also means that I can't say for sure what kind of miles are on the motor (still going to run the leakdown). So that'll save me a few dollars for sure, not having to buy a retro-fit and may be able to re-use the lifters that are in it. I also found out my dad has a 2400 stall Torque converter in the shed so I don't have to buy one. On another note, just thought I share that I have a fresh set of wheels on the way that should be here early next week. About 5 weeks til this thing is out and waking the dead with its rumble

Pretty easy to pull the dizzy and flashlight down the dizzy hole to see if it has rollers.