Thread: Cooling issue in my '35 Ford
Hybrid View
-
05-06-2011 05:55 AM #1
Sometimes cars of that time period have engine compartments that contribute to overheating. Their design traps hot air so that no matter how hard the fans are blowing the hot air has no where to escape. When you put a larger V8 in there and toss ac into the mix, it just gets worse.
Does the car cool off when you get it moving again? If so, what does it normally run at? Also, what brand fans are you running?
Don
-
05-06-2011 06:21 AM #2
Spal fans are about as good as they get for electric fans and pullers work much more effectively that pushers. If you don't have a Spal, you might want to look into one of their straight bladed units which pull the most air. Have you looked into any of the products you can add to your radiator fluid to bring down the temperature? Are you hood side solid or vented? If they are solid, you might want to look at getting some that are vented if nothing else works.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
-
05-06-2011 07:35 AM #3
'35 ford cooling problem.
Thanks for the replies. It does cool off when moving and stays at 180. Puller is a Thinline curved blade and is at the very top due to space restrictions. Pusher is a straight blade and is mounted at the bottom of the condenser. Don't know the brand name. I added Be Cool fluid and it didn't help. Has a factory hood and the sides are vented. Still wondering if an oil cooler with a fan might help. Thanks again!
-
05-06-2011 07:48 AM #4
Ok, much more info. Those thinline fans put out almost no air compared to a good SPAL fan. I had to run them on my 27 for years because of clearance issues and once I put a SPAL on it the difference was like night and day. If you test a SPAL while holding in your hands it will try to get away!
If your car cools off when you start moving it is because of airflow. You are gettiing enough while moving but the fans are not doing the job when stopped. Maybe if you don't have a short Chevy pump setup that might give you enough room for a good puller. A shroud also helps immensely.
Don
-
05-06-2011 07:56 AM #5
Don & I were typing at the same time, but he was faster.I know you said you have no room for a shroud, but I believe that may be the problem here. Without a shroud your fans will pull/blow to the path of least resistance, which is not through the radiator core. My "shroud" is a simple piece of aluminum sheet turned down about an inch on the sides with a 16" hole for the fan. That 1" lip provides the mounting surface on the radiator, putting the fan only about 1/2" back from the core. My SPAL puller fan is biased to the bottom of the radiator to help clearance at the pulleys - I rotated it top to bottom when I laid the radiator back more... If it cools down at speed it seems to me you have an air flow problem.
Last edited by rspears; 05-06-2011 at 07:59 AM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
-
05-06-2011 10:37 AM #6
If you can take some photos and post, we can probably get a better feel for the problem. I agree that air flow is you problem. You have a condenser which will block the air flow somewhat, then another fan. Add that to the tight engine compartment, somewhat restrictive hood sides, no shroud, then a 180* T-stat when it should have a 190-195 you have a recipe for over heat. As far as 230* and with a 15pound cap, it will not "boil over" until the water temp is about 250*F.
This Cooling Components fan (Walker owned) is what I'm using in conjunction with my Walker radiator. When it kicks on, it creates a wind!! They have a thinner version now.Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
-
05-07-2011 10:27 AM #7
Thanks everyone for all your suggestions. I am going to try a spal straight blade fan and see if that will keep it cool. I talked to a representative at Evans Cooling and he told me if I installed an aluminum radiator my problems would "go away". May try that if the spal doesn't work. Thanks again!
-
05-07-2011 10:57 AM #8
I'm sure you will be getting conflicting opinions on the aluminum vs brass/copper radiator debate. Some people think copper is better some think aluminum is better. I am on the aluminum team myself, but am no cooling expert. However, I do ask a lot of questions and have used a couple of aluminum ones with good success.
Just for a second quote you might call PRC and see how much they want for a radiator for your car. I had one in my 23 and it was difficult to get it above 170, even with a 190 thermostat. You could hold the bottom hose and it was only warm, so the radiator was super efficient. Just a suggestion.
www.prchotrod.com
Don
Looks Factory!!
1968 Plymouth Valiant 1st Gen HEMI