Thread: 383 build-Something Caught My Eye

Tweet

I do see what you are saying about the Icon's and they do seem to be a really good deal for the money.What do they mean by offset pins??.Is it a 5/64's ring across the board or are they a 5/64's-5/64's-3/16's??.If they are just a 5/64's-should that be a cause for concern??.

In term of the stock lifters,the L30 I have was a 1995 which was a transitional yr and mine came threw as a flat lifter engine.It has the bosses in the galley which is tapped and threaded.I am thinking I would go with the aftermarket stuff just for peace of mind.I know of one guy locally with a Camero that had a problem with collapse OEM lifters and these vans are not the easiest to work on.

Do the reassembled RHS heads come threw with springs to handle the hyro roller cams or would I be better off buying bare and build up with a matched springs to the cam??.

There is a guy who's shop is close to mine and he is building a 50's chevy coup with a vett tpi.We talked a couple of days ago briefly while I was having him mount some tires for me.He said(I might have this backwards)that he swapped out the mass air sensor to a map sensor and had a company burn a chip for him to get around that problem.I'll have to check into that farther.I sure wish I had the cash for a Edelbrock EFI.
I have seen deals on the used 3500 series units,but I visited their forum and they are saying buying used is a risk.That they don't support the old stuff anymore so your kind of on your own.

Well I got to get to my shop to try to get some work done today.I'll check back later.

Thank you all for the help.

Competition Products list the Icon's for $319.99.Is that about the right price??.

rings will be 5/64 5/64 3/16 the pistons have pin off set for less thust loading .i buy my heads bare and load them with parts i want and valve seals and springs.i check the guides and seats. on piston cost..ic9926 is $329.99 comp products

Sounds like the price went up 10 bucks since I got the last catalog. No big thing there.They are a stock item,so they get free shipping.

Pat,as long as you are spec'ing a cam-would you please spec a kit for it too.Anytime next wk after your feeling better is fine.

Any thoughts about the compression ratio and cutting the deck??.Could you please look at the first page that I posted.

Thanks Again Pat.

i get 9.2CR with a 040 flepro 1003 gasket and 010 in the hole .4.030 Icon ic735 this pistons uses the 1/6.1/6.3/16 ring pack. 9.4 with O deck

OK Pat.I got it on the KB site.I'll get them ordered up from Competition Products on Monday.
There is a special clearances notice.

Icon Forged Racing Pistons

I'll have to be sure my machine shop gets a copy of that.Oh BTW-the machinist name is Jim.Just in case I need to ref him later in a post.

Thanks.
I am going to bed.TTYL.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i get 9.2CR with a 040 flepro 1003 gasket and 010 in the hole .4.030 Icon ic735 this pistons uses the 1/6.1/6.3/16 ring pack. 9.4 with O deck

What do you think??.9.2 or 9.4 given the towing??.I think because you have said keep it low,that your going to say 9.2.Just want to confirm.

Low is good for detonation, although, there are things like squish to consider.

With the higher SCR , mild cam and iron heads, how will the high dynamic compression ratio come into play?

I'm no expert. just throwing these things out to maybe learn something.

Originally Posted by 123pugsy

Low is good for detonation, although, there are things like squish to consider.

With the higher SCR , mild cam and iron heads, how will the high dynamic compression ratio come into play?

I'm no expert. just throwing these things out to maybe learn something.

.010 in the hole with a 040 head gasket is fine. with smaller cams. any cam for that matter .. you have to watch the cam events is this willl efect the dynamic compression as well as rod length. with a stock head kit head gasket most are .050 so its not hard to be at 070 in the hole with some pistons so i deck the blocks on most sbc its 9.000 to 9.010 deck all stock build s it will move the CR up abit i like the piston not in the hole much if i can help it by tru-decking the block with the BHJ i done many stock and mild builds this way it works for me . on race stuff were allways working on were the piston needs to be in the block

I have to try to read the special clearance notice again.This computer on different colors makes it hard.Pat maybe you could please clear up this question for me.Because of that notice,do I need to buy rings from KB only made for that piston??.For Jim to have to fit each top ring isn't going to make him happy,but I know he will respect my choice of pistons and do a good job.He is the cousin of my closest over 30 yr friend and I know his work to be spot on the money.

Pat-could you please venture a guess to the torque/HP numbers for this engine??.I PM'ed Richard to run it on his Dyno program,but I haven't seen much of him lately and don't know if he will chime in.Also,I don't know if you have the same program.

I have to replace this windows 98 computer.It has just got to be too much to deal with and honestly it was/is the back-up computer to a windows XP that broke down in Dec.As late Monday I am going off line short of a library computer on the way to the shop to have the data transfered to a another computer.I think I will be off line until Wed's.I am trying to gain the info for this before hand so I can get the parts moving my way.

Can't tell you how much I appreciate you help Pat.Thanks

you can get drop in rings but like i told don in another post i still check end gaps and trim them were i want them.it is less work then a 4.030+.005 over ring set were you are cutting the top and 2 ring i will work on some numbers later on tonight there is many ring sets i use. more to what the builder likes for ring .i have no use for prefect circle rings i HATE there oil ring setup

Thanks Pat.I do want to see what we ended up with in terms of numbers.

Hey Gary, just happened to click on this thread and saw that you need a sim run. Since the change in this forum design, I don't get a notification on a pop-up like other forums, so it doesn't occur to me to look at the tiny, tiny little letter at the top of the page.

Anyway, I would be pleased to run a sim for you except that my software is screwy on EFI systems. I have never run one that made sense. What I can do is put a base carbureted motor together and change certain things about it (CFM, intake, SCR, cam timing points, advance/retard, cam lift, exhaust system) to compare one combo to another. The following is a list of my needs to begin...
Bore and stroke
Rod length
Valve sizes
Airflow 0.100" through 0.600" or whatever the limit is that is published by the mfg. If you want REAL from the sim, then factor the published flow figures. If I think from reading their literature that they are fairly honest, then I will factor the numbers by 0.95, but if I see that they use some shady procedures, like using a 4.200" barrel to flow small block Chevy heads, then I will factor the flow by 0.90. (In other words, 230 becomes 207 @0.90). Other things I look for are how far the valve is in the seat, how wide the seat is, whether or not the valve seat is right on the edge of the valve, whether the valves are undercut on the stems, whether or not they used a pipe on the exhaust, etc. These are things that take a little time to get used to when doing sims if you intend to be REAL about them.
Static compression ratio
Induction flow CFM
Intake manifold type and part number if you have it.
Fuel used
Exhaust system details
Cam lift and timing events @0.050" tappet lift

well it looks like richard has got you covered i got. 2000rpmTQ 480to460 at 3500 rpm and HP 340 from 3500 to 4500 CFM 600 9.5cr with a cam i played with i just used in a marine engine i base this off a stock type head i have no real numbers for that RHS head