Thread: 383 build-Something Caught My Eye

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Originally Posted by 1gary

Bob-the Howards crank is internally balanced.So that part of it shouldn't be a issue.The 700R4 is O/D of .75.Yeah I wish I had the funds for a trans like yours.But that would be a death wish going that fast in a High top Astro.

I just used a 400 crank, but should have gone your route with a special build crank that is internally balanced. As to gear ratio, I don't think you would be running 31" tires on an Astro, tends to gear ya up a bit right there.

Th game plan is for 29"tires with a 3.70 Ford 9".

Originally Posted by 1gary

Th game plan is for 29"tires with a 3.70 Ford 9".

Looks like you are going for good mpg with that tire size and gearing. I'm running a Jag IRS with 3.54, 31", and 0.64 OD. Not only can my Track-T at 1790 lbs run a 10.8 @ 132, but on my last trip to SoCal, got 28.2, 30.2, 24.6, and 16.9mpg for the 1000 mile round trip.

photo_1_00011.jpgphoto_1_.jpgAttachment 50768Attachment 50769Attachment 50770Attachment 50771well not to sound like a smart A$$ but i think i ran numbers as well for you did get more tq but i told you biggger cam would not work on a older tbi the last time we talk about this build you were still thinking what heads to buy ? i think we stop talking about this build when i told i would Never use floating pins in a engine like this if going hi miles of street use there no value in it. you must of not liked hearing that ? as for your block you have it prep out with cam bearing s and painted ? you never pickup the rods? so the mass has never been in the block ? with the 383 you should check to make sure every thing clears before going this far as you very well could be cutting the block out and rods can hit the cam . i have cut one or two blocks out for cranks ok ...many.... as the bottom end gets check many times before it s a done deal hear is a 632 with BME rods that needed me to open up the bores and oil rails

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

Attachment 50774Attachment 50773Attachment 50768Attachment 50769Attachment 50770Attachment 50771well not to sound like a smart A$$ but i think i ran numbers as well for you did get more tq but i told you biggger cam would not work on a older tbi the last time we talk about this build you were still thinking what heads to buy ? i think we stop talking about this build when i told i would Never use floating pins in a engine like this if going hi miles of street use there no value in it. you must of not liked hearing that ? as for your block you have it prep out with cam bearing s and painted ? you never pickup the rods? so the mass has never been in the block ? with the 383 you should check to make sure every thing clears before going this far as you very well could be cutting the block out and rods can hit the cam . i have cut one or two blocks out for cranks ok ...many.... as the bottom end gets check many times before it s a done deal hear is a 632 with BME rods that needed me to open up the bores and oil rails

Hey Pat,
We decided on the World S/R torquer heads.The Scat 4340 I-beam floater 7/16 ARP profiled for stroker rods because I talked to you about if you had seen any problems with them over the long term and you said you hadn't.Just you felt the floaters where more parts to go wrong.Well I have the Icons that are set for floaters and just didn't see why to spend the extra money to convert to making what I had already set as floaters.The heads decision we talked about them and running the block deck .010 down with 67 cc heads and getting back to a 170cc runner for more volume.

Yeah Pat these prolonged threads are hard to keep track of.But that is where I thought bud we left this the last time we talked about it.

Truthfully Pat I wouldn't want to change places with you because you are one of the two major engine builders on the site dealing with god knows how many peoples engine builds in the weeks since we last talked.That is on top of the shop customers you deal with in your real job.

i have used many sets of pistons that came cut with s locks or wire clip locks that went press pin. just that the piston is cut for pin locks that just not enough of me to go this way .its just more parts that can fail yep i said this. if this is going to be used as hi mile engine just more part s that will not help in any thing 7/16 bolts are not needed as well them rods are not needed . but i think you want them to go with the race crank with the big radi and you are stuck more or less using a hard bearing with that crank. you want the parts you have .over all the quality of scat in fine. i may have not been very clear on that rods but post #84#87#89 should of ?.. Thats ok but just not needed in this build just my two cents for what worth

What's your thoughts on a H/B'er internal balance??.Brand etc.You could have suggested one and I forgot.

Power bond.or Romac

I like the looks of the street series with a timing marks etc.

sfi power bond and performance series Romac both are steel

I guess your talking about the 7" in the Powerbond.I have to change to a 2pc flexplate too.I guess no one makes a adapter because the flexplates are not that expensive.

The link here shows a Powerbond with the serpentine belt as apart of the harmonic balancer.I am going to use the serpentine belt drive,but I don't remember the pulley being that close to the block.(inside the balancer VS bolted outside the balancer)I wonder if this one spaces the balancer/serpentine pulley out that far........Kind of confusing but I do like the idea of having the pulley as apart of the balancer.Yet I wouldn't want to get it all balanced to later find a alignment problem with everything else.

Precision Parts Pty. Ltd.

flex plate/auto fly wheel . you can not use older two pc seal fly wheel bolt circle is smaller on one pc seal crank if your s is internal in the back you will have to remove the weight off the back .power bond number for SFI pb2221ss for 6.750or pb1046ss for 8 your looking at a lt1 damper thats not going to work

Pat we are using a 2pc seal crank in a 1pc seal block with a adapter.

then you can use a older two pc chevy internal 168 tooth fly wheel