Thread: 383 build-Something Caught My Eye

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Just to give you guys a glimpse of how anal I can get,I worry how I am going to bag my fresh machined block while in the next few weeks I get together the rest of the parts.In the past where we bought and machined parts for resale,we used LPS3,but Jim justifiably said it is paraffin based and is hard to clean off when we go to assemble it.He has it bagged in thin bags and oiled up.I am going to use a thicker bag before mounting it the engine stand.Got any suggestions to add to what Jim oiled it with??.

Hell I worry about poking holes in the bag for the engine stand bolts because it allows air in the bag.If I had my way,I would vacuum seal it.

Ithink I'd leave it alone and put some camphor blocks in the bag. I buy them at the drug store and put them in my tool boxs. Just tear open the wraper and put them in one or two should do the trick.. They will absorb any moisture that gets in, and will not effect the block. But in my opinion you are being a little AS YOU said anal

Thanks Charlie.Yeah I did say that.

OK Pat.As I think more about your suggestion about floater pins,I consider more than one right answer of conversion to press fit pins.
You said you haven't had a problem with the Icon's.Leads to wonder if there would be a upgrade to the locks that come with the Icons.Or better locks and a button.

Pat I am asking you about this for the sake of people who read this thread and for consideration by me before assembly.

Thanks Pat

no there is no need for a better lock there locks are fine buttons are for race engine s . there s is not need as i said many many many times there is no need for a floater pin in this build . there is not really more then one right answer ? press work fine for this build . if you can list more then one thing why you need then i can list 4 things why you do not . just say you want them the Icons pistons i used .were in bbc were press pin rods were used .i used many floater s saved for race stuff or were i can not get a press pin rod over the years i used many pistons that were setup for locks that the locks were never used je .srp. trw. speedpro. icons. kb hypers . manleys . some others were all on press pin rods

Pat-you and I have partnered up in this build somewhat.I press you for your knowledge to consider a improvement using the floaters.I hear you wanting it to use press fit.

Originally Posted by 1gary

Pat-you and I have partnered up in this build somewhat.I press you for your knowledge to consider a improvement using the floaters.I hear you wanting it to use press fit.

floater is not a improvement over press.. press is stronger turns the rod in to a T less your building a race engine pulling the pistons off the rods every year or less then floaters would be better for getting the pistons off fast . but then you have to worry about locks groves getting loose . bushing getting beat out . more parts to wear and fail more money to re build rods .if press pins are put in with the right press fit it takes tons of pressure to move them out of the rod . floaters are for race use or very small pins pistons

Well Pat here I set with a block honed to the pistons I have and my heart set on the ARP 7/16 bolts on scat rods which are not offered as press fit.I keep fighting wanting to build tons more in parts than what I need to find that I have the wrong parts.I do know on our race engines I don't go threw this kind of thing.Worst of it all is going threw planning this thing out and having to change that plan for the heads I think three times.Makes me want to say the hell with it and build the baddest 383 known to man.Seems the manufactures don't make parts for what the hell I want.If you are getting a sense of where I am at is yes I am getting frustrated.

I knew the purpose behind floaters for the race deal.I just thought that IF guys like Lingenfelter could build engines standing behind them for three yrs using floaters,that I could do the same thing.But I trust your opinion and now at the eleventh hr I am find once again the I am wrong and that the press fit deal will effect the balance on this engine.So here I set taking yet another step delaying even getting balanced done let alone getting done and adding costs for the conversion and the balance.(more wt)

I am also wanting a tow 383 that I can still get the early on in the curve 500lbs + of torque and any self respecting 383 should be able to get 400hp and be able to use a EFI induction system without going to the poor house.I have considered that what I am building here is something at cruise speed is going to be a Huge dog like the diesels.

Well it's late and a really bad day.TTYL.

no they make rods that fit the bill for your engine .can a engine with floaters be back by a 3 years unconditional warranty ?? how good of bushing who,s bushing over sea s stuff or a spec like amco bushing? this engine can be built for what you need . you just keep wanting to add race parts to a work engine NO value in it .you do not need the 7/16 bolt rods .floater or not will not come in to play with balancing . you keep wanting to use a race horse to pull a milk wagon . i built many engines. on race stuff it gets way harder then what you have on your plate now .many times we have to hand fit many of the parts .get rods made for the build . pushrods. pistons . how much counter weight we want on the crank . mill heads for the CC we want . on and on. i will stop on this and let you build your engine the way you want it,s not coming from McCarthy Performance i have no dog in this hunt

Am i reading that you have already balanced your crank but don't have the rods yet???

Seams to be building the same way he built his HiPo 4.3 V6.
Still waiting for my apology Gary.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

no they make rods that fit the bill for your engine .can a engine with floaters be back by a 3 years unconditional warranty ?? how good of bushing who,s bushing over sea s stuff or a spec like amco bushing? this engine can be built for what you need . you just keep wanting to add race parts to a work engine NO value in it .you do not need the 7/16 bolt rods .floater or not will not come in to play with balancing . you keep wanting to use a race horse to pull a milk wagon . i built many engines. on race stuff it gets way harder then what you have on your plate now .many times we have to hand fit many of the parts .get rods made for the build . pushrods. pistons . how much counter weight we want on the crank . mill heads for the CC we want . on and on. i will stop on this and let you build your engine the way you want it,s not coming from McCarthy Performance i have no dog in this hunt

I totally agree there isn't a performance advantage in floater pins.The pistons are designed with a offset pin to limit cold forge piston slap.Changing that is something I don't think either of us can predict because of a wt change with press fit rods. What I want is the 7/16 ARP rod bolts out of this situation.Why??.Well I never wavered in the concept of this being a dual purpose engine.That some day in the future I might wake up and say the hell with my business,sell it off,and use apart of that to change up the total top haft of the build,wanting to know I covered anything I could throw at the bottom end having the Howards crank,7/16 ARP bolts/decent rods,and forged pistons.All which are more than I need.So the sticking part here is aside from another step,is having to give up the ARP 7/16 bolts.You said there is a upgrade in the bushings for the rods I planned for in Amco.Pat please explain more in the process to do that job.

Thanks,
Gary



Now until you have built a about $10,000 dollar 4.3 and ran it as I have and built WINING 9.90 cars over 20 yrs,I don't think a off topic post like this has any place in this thread.Honestly-not to add fire to your post,I reported to Bill this as harassment and asked him to correct it.I suggest IF you want to pursue a exchange in the thread that dealt with that I will gladly exchange posts to you.Enough said.OK???.

Originally Posted by Two8tyThree

Seams to be building the same way he built his HiPo 4.3 V6.
Still waiting for my apology Gary.

So as time and ideas go by,plans for builds on engines evolve.

The question of pins still left open.

We have gotten this to a torque curve of over 500lbs at 3500rpm.

That is something I want to keep.

Reminder of parts purchased and machine work done:

Icon reverse dome pistons which are a -18 and set up for 5.7 rods

Howards Track smart forged crank

Block machined and honed for the above with deck height 10 down.

The HP rating is at 4400 for 350 hp.

Here is what I want to revise.A 400ish HP rating at 5000 rpm.

Please lets look at that to see what we need to get there.

Thanks,

Gary

Crower rods do have some advantages.Maybe there are some that would fit the build??.What you guys think??.

crower ssp93305b-8 or sp93205b-8 but you could look at howards SL5700s or use the scat scr5ap