Thread: heating problem

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I have a 86 model camaro and i built a new motor for it. The problem that im having is that the left head is about 30 to 40 degrees warmer than the right head. I put some eldebrock performer heads on it with a cam that is just a little over .500 lift. I also have a new aluminum waterpump and a 160 stat. The carb is a new holley 650. I also checked the temps of the header tubes and there is also the same temp difference. I have checked for vacuum leaks, even went as far as pulling the intake and the head to see if there was something bolcking the water passage. THe same thing is happening with the stat removed to see if i have an air pocket. I have never had this happen before and I have built many motors. Any info would be appericated.

Welcome to CHR!

A couple questions:

1. What engine are you working on? The assumption is a 305 (almost all '86s were 305) or 350 in stock form except as noted above..
2. How hot? Is one side 160 and the other 190?
3. How and where are you measuring the temperature? Do you have sensors directly in the water passages in both heads?
4. How are you measuring header temps? with a probe or infrared?
5. Does the engine perform well?
6. Does the condition change on the road between city driving, open road and up a steep hill?
7. Whats your initial timing? Whats full advance timing?

There will be more questions - based on some of these answers.

Regards
Glenn

Thank you for trying to help me. Ok, I have some answers for you. The car had a 305 in it but it is now a 350. The passanger head will read 165 fully warm and the drivers will get up to 245 to 260. I had the temp gauage in the head, when i took it apart i noticed that the probe was hitting the head so i moved it to the intake. I only have a temp gauge in the drivers head but I have a infrared temp gun and that is how i have been getting these temps. The engine runs really good considering whats going on. No pinging cause of the raised temps. The temp only change is 10 to 15 degrees when driving. This problem that i am having is also at idle. Also something that I have tried is to change the jets in the carb. THe only thing that did was make the condition worse. My header tubes will start glowing orange within about five minutes of running the engine. Also i have covered up the carb to see if i have any vacuum leaks, and it dies like before i can uncover it. I think that it is a lean problem cause of the header temps and that is what is making my coolant temps warmer on that side. I am a mechanic for 10 years and i have never had this problem or heard anybody talking about suck a thing. I am honestly LOST about this. The timing is set at 34 degrees total. I have bypassed all of the computer bullcrap also.

Are you running a single plane or dual plane intake??

The hotter head cracked.................

Sounds like you're checking the right things. I'd suspect a bit lean - however; I wouldn't worry too much about dull orange headers, bright red, not so good.

The infrared should give consistent readings - but have you tried using a different sender and gauge(s)?

You say you changed jets - did you go from stock to a size richer?

You may want to try 12 degrees initial and 36-38 total to see if that makes a difference.

Is the water level staying consistent in the system, i.e., radiator still full?

Finally, what do the plugs look like?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions - but helps to narrow down the parameters..

@cffisher- i am running a rpm air gap which is a dual plane, @1gary- the head is not cracked because i am not loosing any water nor is it pushing out the radiator @ glenn- I put a manual gauge in it because I dont trust the factory one. The manual gauge read alittle cooler than the infrared gun. The stock jets are 67 and I put 70s in there just to see if it would lower the header temps but it did just the oppisite. I dont think that the timing would do much because the timing dont affect just one side of the motor. But I will try it to see if anything changes. The water level is staying the same and not pushing out the radiator. I can run the motor with the cap off and it doing this problem and not push out water. I looked at the plugs when I changed them and they were black like they were fuel fouled but not wet nor smelt like fuel. I also pulled off the head to see if anything was blocking the water passages and found nothing. There was no hot spots on the head not the head gasket. nothing abnornal on the pistons and the cylinder walls looked great. The burn on the exhaust valve was the brown that you look for. The only other thing that I can think of is to swap the heads around to see if the problem follows. PUZZLING???

I admit this is along shot.Any chance you have the wrong W/P on there with one of those reverse flow W/P's??.

it is just a high flow standard water pump. This thing is stupid. I have never had a problem like this.

When normal things dont fix it look at the abnormal. Seems someone on here commented before that they had a brand new water pump from a respected company and the passage was blocked. Take it off and check everything to make sure it is operating as it should. Do you see water movement with the cap off the radiator?

I heavily suggest you call the Edelbrock tech line.If you have a bad casting(yepper one gets away from them too)you would NEVER find it.Tell them with your best efforts,that is what you think the problem is and want to return the one that is running hot.

Edelbrock.com - Contact Us

@sfort-yes there is water flowing through the radiator. @1gary-I called their tech line today and they told me to send them the head so they could check it. I went ahead and swaped heads around and nothing changed. the drivers side still got hotter. This is stupid. I really dont want to find another block, but i think that is the only thing left to do.

I could be wrong but I think you should have a spacer between the intake and your holley. With Holley's I try to run a single plane. The spacer would allow for better fuel mixture. Its not working now what you got to loose. You could be running leaner on one side

Gezzz Charlie-if that was the case,you would think all manifolds like his would have the same problem.

not the manifold the CARB