Thread: Aftermarket Oil Pan?

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Hi Guys,

I found this forum as a result of various searches I've done recently, and decided to join.

First post, and a question: I'm going to do a rebuild on the 327 in my all-stock and original '65 Impala SS soon, and will need to get a new oil pan due to buggered drain-bolt threads. I'm looking for an NOS pan, which are still "out there"... albeit at a price. Would I be better off getting a quality aftermarket pan (I'm thinking about a Milodon gold-irridited, stock replacement pan which is thicker guage steel and might be better for leak prevention, while offering an extra quart capacity)? Are they much better quality compared to the stockers?

As I said the car's all original; although the NOS pan would look "correct", I think a gold irridited pan might not be objectionable if it's a subtle upgrade in terms of performance and appearance.

Thanks!

i may have a very clean used pan

Welcome to CHR!

The ’65 Impala SS is on my top three of all-time favorite cars. I love the lines and the ride of the big Impalas is tough to beat. Load momma and the kids up to boot!

I’ve done a ton of small blocks and if you can afford it, I would recommend the following Milodon parts:
Oil Pan – 30700 - $109.95
1 Piece gasket – 41000 - $33.95
Oil Pan Stud Kit – 81300 - $21.95
Braided Stainless Steel Dipstick Kit – 22000 - $56.95

The pan is 5 quarts so you’ll need six with a filter. I know $225 sounds like a lot of money for “just an oil pan”, but if you put these parts in together you’ll never have an oil pan leak and the stainless steel dipstick tube actually bolts to the engine and so no leaks there either. Prices are Summit so you may be able to shop a bit. Believe me, this is a winning combination!

Regards,
Glenn

Thanks Glen,

I've owned my Impala for nearly 25 years. Although it runs well, like many old SBC's from the day it burns and drips a bit of oil. I'm just getting serious about rebuilding it...a mostly stock rebuild, but with a mild cam and upgraded internals.

I'm following an NOS pan on the Bay but if the price gets too high I'll bail in favor of the Milodon pan you've quoted above. The stock factory pans are more prone to damage, warpage and leaky seals; no sense in paying too much for inferior quality just for the sake of staying "completely original".

Larry

Originally Posted by AmericanPie

I'm following an NOS pan on the Bay but if the price gets too high I'll bail in favor of the Milodon pan you've quoted above. The stock factory pans are more prone to damage, warpage and leaky seals; no sense in paying too much for inferior quality just for the sake of staying "completely original".
Larry

Larry, welcome to CHR. Like Glen I've always been partial to the '65 Impala's with their smooth curves. Before you buy a NOS pan have you considered fixing the one you have? Welding in a nut to accept a new drain plug would not be a difficult fix. That said, Glen's parts list would be a much better way to go, if it works for you.

Larry, I'm not sure which pan you have, but have you checked Kevko pans? They have a fairly extensive line of 'stock appearing' pans that have some oil control features inside but look bone stock on the outside.

They sell oversized selftaping drain plugs.

i used many milodon over the years of engine building and sold many to customers. always has been my pan of choice when doing a build up .. BUT there stock pans are not to good of a good fit. you do not need a race pan ? less it a must have deal .. i would use a nice stock gm pan less it a hi RPM engine other then that your wasting good money that could go to HEI or better air cleaner intake or EX were for alow rpm engine you will see more bang for the buck if the plug is striped that a EZ fix over size plug like cffisher posted or go to a weld shop and have a 1/2 by 20 nut welded inside of the pan. two good tacks will work the washer keep s it sealed on the out side or buy a good used stock pan GM pan that will FIT. I Am Not slaming Any One Here .... i just know how much money and time i lost on some of the jobs that stuff i used in the past did not fit any more,,, and more taiwan stuff seems alot of it out there

We just spend 1/2 day fitting a matched combo pan/pump/pickup on a sbc( I won't mention company) but this was a job where a pan was ordered along with the suggessted/specified matching pump/pickup----

thats what i love about the job ..jerry buy top of the line pan??? beat the hell out of stuff to fit cut trim and bitch or by some cheap china or taiwan pan for less then half the cost and beat and bitch about the fit alost the same pan just one comes in a nice box with stickers

I'm with charlie, I'd put an oversized self tapping drain plug in and a one piece gasket. I've fixed a couple of pans like that and never had a leak.

There are 4 problems with an oversized self tapping drain plug---thats the 4 streams of hot oil that squirt out on you as you screw it out to drain the oil!!!

and don't forget about the thick/thin end seals, one piece, drivers side.passengers side no dipstick hole cutout---then the bolt holes that aren't there for stroker clearance, .080 dips in rail caused by drawing when so called stroker notches were pressed in the rail-------think I need another coffee!!!!!

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

and don't forget about the thick/thin end seals, one piece, drivers side.passengers side no dipstick hole cutout---then the bolt holes that aren't there for stroker clearance, .080 dips in rail caused by drawing when so called stroker notches were pressed in the rail-------think I need another coffee!!!!!

how could i not forget... let me add if i may.. dip stick in the wrong spot so it can not go threw windage tray. rear main cap hitting on pan by corners of pan. oil pump body hitting on pan . tray in pan or trap doors hitting oil pump stock stand offs for tray hitting pan

Well, I just won an NOS pan on eBay so that's that. More $$ than either a good used pan or a new aftermarket pan but at least I know it'll be unwarped and have unsullied threads. My current pan already has a self-tapping drain plug in it, probably installed by the same doofus that over-tightened the original one. Welding a nut inside the pan during the rebuild is a good idea, but now I won't even have to deal with that. Problem solved.

Thanks for the ideas. The question is, will I secretly still long for that pretty gold irridite pan I had in mind?