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Thread: Procharger Blown 383
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Mikey1977 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Procharger Blown 383

     



    I have a sbc 383 with forged rods/pistons/crank. I am running alum heads with 10:1 with fairly large cam which helps to lower my DCR. Here are the specs on the cam:

    Comp Cams hydraulic roller camshaft (540/562 lift, 242/248@50dur

    Air gap manifold which I plan to either move to a victor jr, or fuel injection, edelbrock 800 AVS thunder series carb (which I will replace with a 750 holley if I don't go to EFI).

    My question is this... I would like to run a D or F series procharger with 3 core intercooler and run about 12-14 psi. According to prochargers chart, they claim I can run upwards of 16psi. Procharger claims with my setup and an intercooler this would be completely possible and still run on pump gas. The car is a weekend warrior, so if it turned ot I had to run 100 octane no big deal, but I would like to run pump if possible. But my ultimate goal is 700-800hp. The motor makes about 440hp N/A. I know that if I slap on a roots 671 I should have a max of about 8.5:1. Can someone also explain why a cent s/c lets you run more boost with higher C/R than a roots? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    700-800 Hp is NOT very streetable, you would smoke the tires at every light if you did not know how to handle it ( specially the first time driving it ).
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  3. #3
    Mikey1977 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by Matt167
    700-800 Hp is NOT very streetable, you would smoke the tires at every light if you did not know how to handle it ( specially the first time driving it ).
    I plan on running 335/40/20s in the rear. But aside from traction, what other problems? I consistantly hear of many high HP cars that are streetable. Like I said, this will be a weekend car.. so I plan on tearing it up around town and at the track. I am not driving it daily to and from work or anything like that.

  4. #4
    Mikey1977 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Here is the chart I found..

    http://www.procharger.com/chevy_ratio.shtml

    According to this chart I could run about 13psi on pump. And yes I kow I need to take it with a grain of salt, but it at least shows me I can run someting. Most people have told me no more than 4psi??

  5. #5
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Mikey1977
    I plan on running 335/40/20s in the rear. But aside from traction, what other problems? I consistantly hear of many high HP cars that are streetable. Like I said, this will be a weekend car.. so I plan on tearing it up around town and at the track. I am not driving it daily to and from work or anything like that.
    The 20 inch tires you want to run should be ok for the street, what rear end ratio will you run. Sometimes cams might be a little to radical for street use and will find yourself "goosing" the throttle to keep it running cause it wont idle but, because your not going to drive it daily, you should be fine but, don't get cought in too many traffic lights, the engine wont like idiling and you would light the tires when the light turned green if, you wearnt paying attention.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  6. #6
    Mikey1977 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by Matt167
    The 20 inch tires you want to run should be ok for the street, what rear end ratio will you run. Sometimes cams might be a little to radical for street use and will find yourself "goosing" the throttle to keep it running cause it wont idle but, because your not going to drive it daily, you should be fine but, don't get cought in too many traffic lights, the engine wont like idiling and you would light the tires when the light turned green if, you wearnt paying attention.
    That's the combo I run now.. it runs great... less the supercharger.

  7. #7
    Mikey1977 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'll be running about 411 gears maybe more.. also have a T56 with .5 final gear

  8. #8
    Mikey1977 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by Mikey1977
    I'll be running about 411 gears maybe more.. also have a T56 with .5 final gear
    Anymore help anyone?? =D

  9. #9
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    even if that was the case matt takes 10 min to drill some holes in tha flys im puttin you in the same boat as monte man your brain puts limatations on you that the engine doesnt good day

  10. #10
    Mikey1977 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by dominick21m
    even if that was the case matt takes 10 min to drill some holes in tha flys im puttin you in the same boat as monte man your brain puts limatations on you that the engine doesnt good day
    What??? lol

  11. #11
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    dominick21m is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    sorry personal jab forgive me lol

  12. #12
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    ok....im no professional but here are some things i know about making boost. i know a cent. supercharger is more efficient as far as heat goes. here are some factors that can help you to be able to run as much boost as possible. boost is better than compression, btw.

    1. dish pistons or flat top pistons will work. i'd buy dish unless you already have the parts for the engine.

    2. a std. bore (or close to it) can take a little bit more boost because the thicker the cylinder walls are the less heat the motor is gonna make. less heat means less detonation

    3. heads with big combustion chambers. the motor im building is gonna have a set of gm iron heads that have 76 cc chambers. but they have been ported so that gives me even less compression.

    4. thick head gasket will create less compression

    5. big valves......the exhaust valve needs to be big to let the heat out of the head. less heat=less detonation

    6. also, im not sure but is that a blower or nitrous cam? because for forced induction you need a greater lobe separation. (112-114) procharger also calls for the exhaust duration to be 10-14 degrees greater than the intake.

    7. intercooler-you'll definately be able to run more boost by running an intercooler.

    procharger sells different sized pulleys to adjust your boost to as high as you want it

    i know this is alot to read but i hope it helps you out a little bit.

    im doing everything i can on the motor im building to be able to run around 15 lbs. of boost. it wont be intercooled though. if i can run 15 lbs. of boost on my motor....it should be around 800 hp.
    Last edited by blown64vette; 04-12-2005 at 08:34 PM.

  13. #13
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    sorry guys...didnt realize this was such an old post. i just typed in procharger on the search.

  14. #14
    firebird45331 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    lol so much for my earlier thread where I said the guy with the Monte SS said he was pushing 700 HP out of a N/A 383. lying sack of doggy dung
    [img]<a href="http://lostcherry.com/viewimage.php?u=4994&i=3846948978" target=_blank><img src="http://lostcherry.com/image.php?u=4994&i=3846948978&tn=1" border=0></a>[/img]

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