Thread: 327 for 88 firebird

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Use the 775 heads on the 327. Put new stock springs and seals on them and bolt them on with this head gasket....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1094
If you can afford to buy a little better valve spring than stock, buy these....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99848-16
Slide this cam into the motor straight up on the marks....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-10003
Using these new Crane hydraulic lifters....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99277-16
Read through this tutorial several times so that you completely understand using a flat tappet hydraulic camshaft in today's world......
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
Use a stock cast iron intake manifold and 1 5/8" long-tube headers. Install an X or H pipe in the exhaust system before the mufflers.

The motor will be about 8.7:1 static compression ratio, 8.00:1 dynamic compression ratio, 0.041" squish, will make good power and run on cat piss regular pump gas without detonating. I'm pretty sure you will like this motor.

While you're doing it, you might just as well find true top dead center so you can time the motor with a light and know it's right.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

When setting the valves, just before you fire the motor the first time, follow these instructions so that you don't end up with the valves too tight and frag the cam.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...stment_SBC/BBC

You wouldn't believe the amount of time that several of us fellows put into writing these tutorials, so use them to your benefit. Read through them thoroughly several times to be sure you understand them and you will be rewarded with a guaranteed good build.

When you're buying gaskets, buy the best that money can buy. Buy 2 sets of intake gaskets. The first set you will use to bolt the intake manifold on after you torque down the heads. Then you will remove the intake manifold and inspect the gaskets for being pinched thin all the way around each and every port. This is where a lot of fellows get into trouble, by not checking this. If one or more of the ports aren't sealing shut on the outside of the port, that will result in a vacuum leak that can be found by spraying a combustible liquid around between the intake and the head while the motor is running. If you have a vacuum leak, the motor will rev up when you find the leak with the flammable spray, because you will have corrected the lean condition just for a moment. Disassembly and cutting the intake manifold at the machine shop will be necessary to fix the problem.

If, on the other hand, there is a vacuum leak on the bottom of the gasket, you will never find it with a combustible spray. The motor will inhale oily vapors in that cylinder when the intake valve opens, resulting in a lean cylinder that will run hot and may spit out the head gasket. That cylinder will also be pulling in oil from the crankcase, so it will be burning oil that will be noticeable on the spark plug for that cylinder or cylinders. So, follow my instructions of using 2 sets of intake gaskets, one to put the manifold on the first time and the other set to put the manifold on for good, after you inspect all the ports for being pinched all the way around the port.

Those heads and intake manifold have been around since the 60's and may have been owned by any number of rodders who may have cut them on different angles. Never assume anything when dealing with parts of this vintage.