View Poll Results: DO made for Aluminium Manifold Seals Work?
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Yes. they are awesome, go buy them
0 0% -
There not much better than the Regular ones
4 100.00% -
They suck, save your money.....
0 0%
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03-17-2004 07:09 PM #1
Aluminium Intake Manifold Seals HELP!
OK. I have a 350 with the vortec heads, and an Edelebrock Performer manifold, my problem is That I used The regular fel-pro manifold seals, and I'm getting Oil leakage right in the middle of the manifold, where the heat crossover is.
Does any one know of a better seal for alum. manifold to Iron Heads? I've heard that they make some that are thicker for that purpose, but do they work?
Also my oil pump is capible of 80psi @4000 rpm, so could that be a probem? i would apprecaite the help.......
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03-17-2004 07:22 PM #2
Mr gasket Ultra seal II, $19.99 from www.Jegs.comYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-17-2004 07:28 PM #3
Is it a little thicker??? I have the ultaseals on my headers, they seem to work good, perhaps I'll give those a try
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03-17-2004 07:39 PM #4
Your gaskets are probably .120 thick and the Ultraseal II's are 1/16" so yeah I thinks so, your gonna have to change the gasket NE way so, just give those a shot.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-17-2004 07:52 PM #5
1/16 is .0625
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03-17-2004 09:30 PM #6
I would call up edelbrock and Fel-pro. One of them has to have the gasket you need. I would ask edelbrock first. Then get a cheaper version of theirs.Right engine, Wrong Wheels
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03-17-2004 11:44 PM #7
i have the same problum, but i leak all along the seal from the front to the back, its all tight i go over and over it again to check it and its all tight so do i need to go to the thicker seal like monte mans engine?
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03-18-2004 05:41 AM #8
The seals go across the front and back of the intake. Most mechanics throw them out and use Permatex Form-a-gasket in their place. I think you guys are talking about the gaskets. You can solve the problem by coating your gaskets on both sides with Permatex. Also don't tighten one side first then the other. Find the torque setting for your engine and tighten each bolt gradually with a torque wrench. The same as you would with a cylinder head." Im gone'
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03-18-2004 08:25 PM #9
I hope U boyz are a listnin Cause u,ed better.
See Streets, that wasn't sooooo hard to help the yungins
Good job to you as well Al! Boy it egts tough tryin to type when Paige is on my lap tryin to help Ive been deleting and backspacing for 5 min now, she is getting better though
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03-18-2004 09:47 PM #10
Actually, o yee of geezering help. I think we made the assumption that an edelbock intkae and vortec heads would be new. I dunno, maybe its just me...Right engine, Wrong Wheels
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03-19-2004 05:50 AM #11
drg84 you only assumed that I assumed. You'd be wrong young fella.
Got any ideas to help the Monte man or is this the argument forum?" Im gone'
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03-19-2004 07:54 AM #12
Assumptions are dangerous things to make!! By the way, things do come out of the box defective, also. Assuming any part, new or old, is good can cause problems.
Hopefully none of these peices were angle milled or not an excessive amount of cutting on the block surfaces??? If it's all stock and is not warped, the sealants Al suggested and following the torque sequence that Streets showed should work properly.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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03-19-2004 12:23 PM #13
MONTE MAN.....I am going through the same thing, but my engine is a '80 chev truck 350 with the Edelbrock intake. Last year I found oil around one intake bolt,but I wasn't sure what was causing it. Then, a couple of weeks ago I started it up and let it run awhile and I had oil laying on the other side of the intake by three of the bolts! On the advice of a couple friends I removed the bolts,got new ones, and coated them with ARP thread sealer before installing them. Afterward I cranked it up, I let it get up to operating temp. and found no leaks. Of course, I won't know if I cured the problem for sure till the weather gets better and I can put some miles on it. ( Here in Ohio, even if the roads are dry there is still a lot of salt and junk around and I don't use fenders)I was thinking that the problem might be that the bolts simply needed tightened since the car hasn't been started for almost two months, but this hasn't happened to me before. So I used the thread sealer and I'm going to hope that does it 'cause I have enough other things to worry about and play around with.
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird