Thread: 350 Ignition Problems

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What kind of ignition system, most are assuming this is a points style? Where is the coil mounted or is it part of the distributor HEI style. What year is the car, answer these questions it will help us give you specific troubleshooting assistance.

Originally Posted by pepi

What kind of ignition system, most are assuming this is a points style? Where is the coil mounted or is it part of the distributor HEI style. What year is the car, answer these questions it will help us give you specific troubleshooting assistance.

Nah, we aren't assuming. He just won't give us what we need to help him....

It's part of the distributor hei style it is a 1976 chevy c10. Thank you so much.

I'd change the ignition switch and expect that the problem will disappear.

Okay now I've changed the switch and the only way the engine will start cranking is if i have the switch moved as far up the column as it can go. Once it starts cranking for a couple seconds I let go of the key and then it starts....sometimes it doesn't.

If this is on a GM column, sounds like the rod from the mechanical part of the switch to the electrical part of the switch is out of adjustment.....

A bit more background on what the car is, and what the systems and components involved are would certainly help the diagnosis!!!!!

Sounds like either a broken or out-of-adjustment ignition switch actuator. GM columns are pretty much the same inside from 1969 - 2002. They have a little rack that moves from a gear on the back of the lock cylinder. The rack is attached to a rod that actuates the ignition switch mounted near the base of the steering column. Since you've replaced the switch with no change, it's probably inside the head of the steering column. They can be a bit of a beast the first time in. I'd recommend going to this site Steering Column Parts, Replacement, & How to Instructions and looking at your exact model -they have a ton of information and all the parts necessary for repair.

Good Luck and welcome to CHR!
Glenn

Okay awesome! Thank you so much for all your help I really appreciate it. You guys are awesome

Well I can't be of much help but this thread caught my eye because just today a friend and I installed a Pertronix magnetic points kit on a '76 SBC 350 with an Edelbrock 1406 carb as well. During discussion with the Pertronix Tech Support person he revealed that I did not need a ballast resistor with the magnetic points since there were no mechanical points to burn up and if I use the Pertronix matching 40,000v coil with 1.5 ohms resistance the resistance in the coil is adequate and gives a hotter spark. I am using the Speedway springloaded key starter and "Its A Snap" wiring so it is amazing that the wiring instructions from both "Its A Snap" and the circuit that came with the Pertronix kit became simple once I actually read them so all I can suggest is that you get the appropriate circuit diagram and study it. It was very satisfying that my 350 started right up with the modified points distributor body with the Pertronix internals.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/Teen Rodder

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

if it all worked before you could have a bad switch or switch may be out of adjustment if mounted on the column. power out put can be verified by ohm gauge or test lite .ign #1 should ways feed 12 volts off switch when cranking

this is what i posted back when this post was young not sure if you said if the car is stock .the rod can get hanged up on the column if the N lock up is off or if column is hanged wrong

Should the rod run straight from the ignition switch up to the rack set? I noticed mine runs a little crooked.