If you replace the points distributor with an HEI (which I highly recommend), then run a fresh electrical line from the switch to the + on the HEI. The existing electrical line that feeds the + terminal on your coil is either a resistance wire or has a ballast somewhere in the line. This is so that, with points, you get 12v at startup and then the voltage drops to protect the points. This arrangement will not work well with the HEI, which needs a full 12v ALL THE TIME. Even a boneyard HEI will probably perform better than the points arrangement.

Here's the tool you will need to turn the crank. Remove the belt pulley(s) and bolt this tool to the damper.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...rning_tool.jpg
While you're fiddlin' with the motor, you may as well verify the damper inertia ring for TDC. If it has moved in relation to the hub, you will never get the motor timed properly with a light....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center