Thread: Header gasket suggestions

Tweet

A note - with your site 'handle', it sounds like you are putting these gaskets on a '23 T-bucket. If those headers and exhaust, like many(most?), are supported only by the header bolts and nothing else, even the Earl's gaskets can fail

Found the issue. I suppose I should get the round port ones

Well here is the other side that wasn't blown out and is correct. It's a square port and is under 1 1/2" it appears to be closer to 1 3/8" which is the 1.360 square port gasket.

Originally Posted by IC2

A note - with your site 'handle', it sounds like you are putting these gaskets on a '23 T-bucket. If those headers and exhaust, like many(most?), are supported only by the header bolts and nothing else, even the Earl's gaskets can fail

Actually this is on my 41 willys pickup, I started into hot rodding with a 23 T bucket a few years back. That rod had a 440 Chrysler with a 6 pack on it.

I prefer the thicker graphite header gaskets with the locking header bolts.

I run sprint headers with nothing but the header bolts supporting the whole mess and in 10 years I have never had a gasket failure or a loose bolt.

Again as long as the clamping pressure is even it is a no brainer, notice plane old allen head bolts and lock washers. I just like the allen's I use them all over the motor, only a personal preference not a speed trick.

I think if you just get OEM or a descent after market gasket, make very sure the clamping pressure is even. Start from the center ports and work to the end you should be just fine. Starting from the two center ports will help flatten the flange if there is some skew from welding.

Looking at your gasket picture, looks to me that one side was paper they are commonly shipped by some of the header builders. Why I have no idea cause the price of a reasonable header gasket is small potatoes.

Look at the port in the head, if it is round then by all means use the round profile, if rectangle get that profile.

Header Gaskets Sbc - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

DSCN2100.jpg

Spotted this in your post, "header with a 1/2" flange" I have a question you are saying the flange is .5 thick?

Then I ask, are you possibly using the stock length bolts if so that's the problem add .5 too the length and replace all 8. I would think a Hooker header with a .5 flange would not have skew/warp from welding, possible but I give them more credit then that.

Originally Posted by pepi

Spotted this in your post, "header with a 1/2" flange" I have a question you are saying the flange is .5 thick?

Then I ask, are you possibly using the stock length bolts if so that's the problem add .5 too the length and replace all 8. I would think a Hooker header with a .5 flange would not have skew/warp from welding, possible but I give them more credit then that.

The 1/2" flange was actually another header I was referring to that I worked with in the past. It was an OBX header and the fel pro gasket wouldn't seal. I finally had to use some copper gasket sealant to make it seat.

Thank you though I will take your advice with the cranking of the bolts. I was planning on using the Allen head bolts as well. The headers are on my 41 Willys here so they have plenty of support.