Thread: crank position sensor

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so explain who is this man made of leather and how he tests spark????????????????

something like what firebird77clone suggested only with naked body parts
he didn't always look like he was made of leather - too much spark testing
he said he was glad that the spark wasn't working ever since he got the used pacemaker
cheers
hank

Tow'd

somehow I'm thinking that you are maybe missing some basics---check the spark with a spark plug hooked to a wire-coil wire will bypass rotor/cap issues---
if you have spark, move on to fuel issues----spray some starting fluid into the intake and see it it will fire and run some----I've even done this with grandma's flamable hairspray----

I would almost bet on lack of fuel------------

we tested along side of the road where the truck died
I tried starting fluid first didn't even try to start
no spark

check grounds . check relays under the hood ? if like my old chevy ? then find a ECU to plug in

I'd like to test the coil --we got no signal from the dist. so figure that the ICM must be bad
i cleaned the grounds that I could find

there are two plugs going into the coil
one from the dist. one connection is 12v+ on with the key the other side must be the signal from the dist. or ground

I'm not sure where the other plug goes- the truck has a tach

I should be able to test the coil by powering it up and by touching the wire from the dist.to ground for a second it should spark when the ground connection is broken
(that is the way I've tested regular looking coils)

I haven't tried it yet to see what you guys say

Originally Posted by TOW'D

I should be able to test the coil by powering it up and by touching the wire from the dist.to ground for a second it should spark when the ground connection is broken (that is the way I've tested regular looking coils)
I haven't tried it yet to see what you guys say

I wouldn't be shorting out any ignition, sensor or injector wires on an engine with an ECU/Computer. That may have worked in the old days, but the days of 'arc & spark' testing are long gone. Get yourself a VOM (volt/ohm meter) and check for voltage on the positives. If you can't swing a VOM get a 12V test light, hook the lead to a good ground and probe for 12V.

that's why I figured I'd ask
I've got a good VOM and a few different test lights
no doubt the factory book will be a big help when it gets here
thanks

I suppose that you have already checked out the fuses and relays????????? and the Ign/start switch?????????

plus---does that have one of those keys with the security chip/resistor????

You may have a bad ignition switch it could have moved as starter is not same contact as run.test light or vom meter realy should use a digital meter.

we get 12v on the red side of the push on connector with the key on- ignition switch is good then

how about in the start position??????

and are the fuses and relays good???? the ignition switch in modern vehicles only has enough amp cap to trigger relays--does not usually power something direct

check voltage to fuel pump at the tank

Turned out to be a bad distributor module
along with the module we installed a new dist cap & rotor and a good set of spark plugs and ign.wires
thanks
hank

Originally Posted by TOW'D

Turned out to be a bad distributor module
along with the module we installed a new dist cap & rotor and a good set of spark plugs and ign.wires
thanks
hank

I'm no good trying to work with these new-fangled pooters.
It either goes...or it don't.
Glad it's all good for ya then mate!



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