Thread: newbie help building engine

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there is many composers on the internet but actually machine/build engines ?.here is a tip for some all lifters in round bores and with out guide plates are made /should turn in the bore the bottom of lifters are not flat most all are ground with a 50+ degree radius should turn in bores... bbc not so much ....i have seen were some posted on low buck deals .i have done many lower buck deals over the years fixed stuff many would not fix ..very few times a guy comes to my shop and ask me to build a engine any way i want. spending there money on any parts i want to use. that is just not happing in real life all the time . all i will say is if your going to re seal the top end why not at least hone bores. polish the crank boil block or jet wash it if you take it to a trusted machine shop tell the guy what you want .he should tell you if it can happen . but like i posted on block work a fresh bore job would not be that much if done with a cast piston but with out seeing the engine and its shape it very hard to say if a rering job going to work .could it be done?? you bet. done it many times even on race engines when pistons are over $800. a set many guys are not so fast to pitch them in the trash

Mike,
You've gotten two or three pieces of good advice here, but unfortunately those "nuggets" are hidden in about 100# of miscellaneous drivel and price advice that you didn't ask for. First of all, 1Gary posted a fantastic link to a Crankshaft Coalition Guide on Cam Selection, giving a very clear and concise guide to cam specs vs static compression - nugget #1. Secondly, TechInspector 1 told you up in Post #49 that trying to put too much cam into your 8:1SCR engine was going to yield bad results, and recommended that you "... install the proper cam for the SCR you have now. Maximum intake valve duration 195 degrees @0.050" tappet lift......NO LOPE......You don't have enough SCR to support lope and a stout motor at the same time, it's one or the other." - nugget #2. Thirdly, Jerry Clayton gave you a piece of wisdom in post #55, saying "...I'd go so far as to say a 51 chev pickup with a 350 v=8 was rad rod enough----".

You started with a question about picking a cam and understanding the numbers you found on your engine, and we seem to be trying to "out expert" each other here, telling you that you can't change a cam without investing $1000 or more in doing a total rebuild on the engine. I stand by what I said before, which 1Gary quoted immediately above - guys have been changing out cams in engines since the early days of hot rodding, learning as they go, making mistakes, and sometimes hitting that home run, or maybe just a good solid base hit. I expect Jerry's advice is best, you're brother's got a nice truck updated with a 350ci engine, and that's pretty cool!! If you decide you want to play and change the cam, then Tech has given you some good advice on picking one that will actually give you some moderate improvement, and you don't really need the Crankshaft Coalition paper other than to understand the "why's", which is always a good thing.

Bottom line, I sincerely hope that you don't let the response to this first post drive you away from CHR. You sound like a good guy, trying to sort things out to help your little brother on his build, and learn a bit along the way. I hope you'll stick around.

drivel ? hell i was asked by the OP to write on here .post # 48 i told him on the cam but that must not count ? ...roller cams .. then post went to roller post so post #52 and cams that many have used over the years at a far price . then tec posted on machine work well Hey that is what i do every day at a shop. so i did out line what the reall deal is for some who may know. but never done it

Roger,Roger,Roger,I remember very well from those" good old school days" we would rebuild,build a engine and some where fast and others where dogs.Ya know what??. We didn't know why like we do now.
Then all those yrs of building engines that Pat has and yes he correctly and accurately answered the O/P's question(s),all the yrs of experience Tech has had seeing good results and well bad ones,then me warning him he has to potential with a old worn engine to damage it and here again yrs of me doing this,where do you get drivel??.
Roger,in my opinion your old school of a cam swap is bad advise,to be direct about it.Not trying to out expert anyone.If anything Roger and especially with me so as not to drive out O/P's,you should stop stirring the pot.

Im keeping an open mind with everything. I want everyones input, thats why i chose to write a post on this forum. When i get home later tonight i'll be able to respond to the last couple posts since im writing this on my cell phone it sucks.

I think that if this is a running rat rod truck, driven locally , leave it alone- you will never realize any gains from the $$$$$$$$$$ you will be spending and if you take it apart to do work on it that your brother can't afford (you need to help him out), you will find that the length of time to complete this will be unbearable and ------------------

It would be much different if it was a daily driver that needed dependability to get to work, school, etc and was used for needed long distance trips to visit family, etc--------but, its a rat rod truck----------you should see my 14 year old rusting Ford F350 with 600k miles----Pat has seen it-----

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

I think that if this is a running rat rod truck, driven locally , leave it alone- you will never realize any gains from the $$$$$$$$$$ you will be spending and if you take it apart to do work on it that your brother can't afford (you need to help him out), you will find that the length of time to complete this will be unbearable and ------------------

It would be much different if it was a daily driver that needed dependability to get to work, school, etc and was used for needed long distance trips to visit family, etc--------but, its a rat rod truck----------you should see my 14 year old rusting Ford F350 with 600k miles----Pat has seen it-----

Yeah know Jerry,if he wants to put some money into it as a bolt on that would apply on anything in the future,a long tube header and good exhaust system would be a good addition.That follows in the vein of a rat rod and it would help it sound better too.

600k miles??.You could do a write up in a thread how to do that!!!.

Hook a tripple axle gooseneck featherlite to it and go to races----------

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Hook a tripple axle gooseneck featherlite to it and go to races----------

well hell lets go

next planned race is Bonneville

I wanta reserve a seat in that ride right next to Pat................will travel, and work for the trip.

save up all your Morton boxes---we'll trade salt for diesel on the way back!!!!!!!!!!

Get ahold of Ford to see if they would paid you for a promotional ad about your truck Jerry.

Hey Mike.Come back so we can continue this discussion about you brother's truck.

im here just kind of thinking things over. I can't really do anything until he gets his tax returns. Can anyone fill me in on pushrod lengths ?