Thread: Crankshaft .060 oversize - is it good idea?

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wbud,
In your situation and considering that both Jerry & Pat have given you reference points to the bearings I'd use what you've got and get on with it. You clearly stated that you're building a relatively stock engine, not some rompin' stompin' 10,000rpm screamer so journal size is not going to be a concern. As Pat pointed out, in the old days bearings came with the same backer and just piled on more babbit, which didn't work so good, but today they use thicker backer stock and put the same thickness of babbit on for all sizes. Your crank rides on a film of oil, not metal to metal so taking it down 0.060" is not a concern from strength or material characteristics. Just get your alignment right, keep your clearances checked and get it done!! I applaud your drive to get this engine done considering where you are and the difficulty getting parts. Get it done, and then post pictures of the car and your mile wide smile, having a 327V8 powered car in Russia!!

And by the way, your English is fine, and much, much better than about anyone here could do in Russian!!

Certainly understand your circumstance.Just want to clarify the hardness question.That now answered,I too look forward to your build thread and pictures.

yeah, thank a lot for support!
Two minutes ago I sent my crankshaft to reginding. So, very nervous awaiting)))

It's engine form Chevy Van Beauville' 79 - it's rare car here, but I must note, that during USSR-era and 90s a lot of cars and trucks were imported. Me and my mate from our local speedshop oranized a US-van club. We do blog ORIGINAL VANNERS, now our vans look like on this link ORIGINAL VANNERS

As I said, I have Chevy Van
Now, without engine







I may post more pictures of totally destroyed engine - due to low oil pressure. Maybe anybody remember, I post photos last summer, and a lot of you help me a lot!

.060 under for performance use.....hmmmmm.....dont know about that. I have heard of the .040 cuts on cranks for standard service, mom & pop grocery getters, and thats no problem...but yeah, the nitride coating is long gone at that kind of cut.....so crack prone possibility

Originally Posted by Mohead1

.060 under for performance use.....hmmmmm.....dont know about that. I have heard of the .040 cuts on cranks for standard service, mom & pop grocery getters, and thats no problem...but yeah, the nitride coating is long gone at that kind of cut.....so crack prone possibility

it will not be past the nitride hardening it.s not a coating many Gm cranks 283 and 396 some 454 that were steel never were nitrided or if its a iron crank . it will not crack or be weak if the radi is round in the crank . the first thing on some race engine is to use smaller mains and rods like many use a honda rod bearing .many on here over think this that engine will never know if its a std crank or a 030or 060 it would be nice to have a std/std or 010/010 less you give him one i thinking he going with what he has

I really didnt mean a "coating" per se......its actually just the hardening process from the surface down a few thou..........so.....all those cranks over the years I turned away because they needed more than a .020 cut was just noncense?.....bummer

Time passed, I have news - we have grinding fault, due to mistake in machine shop the crank was grinded more than we need...
So, I got new SCAT crank now...

Very sad, it's experiment was very interresting.

so did you get a balanced rotating assembly???????????????

not yet - due to it's street stock engine we decide to skip dynamic balance.
Just select matched piston-pin-rod sets.

If you post the info on the end of the scat box, I will tell you if that's possible----------some aftermarket cranks are raw, some a target weight with possible internal /external counterweight combos---------you really don't want to just put this together(especially into a van))))))))))))))

yeah, thanks for your advice!
I will find out part# of my crank.

It's http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0442/overview/

Part. # 910442