Thread: Sbc bogging at around 40 mph and above

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Ok. Is that inside the cap. If so I didn't change that. So I guess I stand corrected. I didn't change everything on top. Thanks.

I've not messed with the HEI personally, but your symptoms point to a component break down to me. Here's a pretty comprehensive article on the units - http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ributor#Module Lots of guys opt for buying a new distributor vs tearing into it and replacing parts. Maybe Dave Severson or one of the other guys can chime in here?

Thanks rspears. I will change that as well. I will see if I can do it before I go to work and go for a test drive. I'll let you guys know the outcome.

Originally Posted by rspears

I've not messed with the HEI personally, but your symptoms point to a component break down to me. Here's a pretty comprehensive article on the units - http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ributor#Module Lots of guys opt for buying a new distributor vs tearing into it and replacing parts. Maybe Dave Severson or one of the other guys can chime in here?

Well I didn't have time to replace the module but I did get it out. I will get one tonight and change it when I wake up in the morning. I am going to go ahead and take the carb apart. It may not need it but it will be a good learning experience and who knows if any paint got in there from the air cleaner spacer. I will get it all put back together tomorrow and give it a test run. Wish me luck. And again thanks to everyone on here that has commented. I am a member on a couple other forums and nobody has given this kind of response on either of them.

Be sure to use the heat sink paste it dose make a differance

should also check wires going to pick up coil for broken wires inside insulation,have you checked fuel pressure,does jeep have catalytic? if so check to make sure its not pluged.

Hmmmmm, wonder what Treygan found on his Jeep? Been a couple of days, and no word.

Sorry guys. It's been a busy couple of days. I just really got to drive it today. I cleaned the carb wasn't much in it but I did find some of that orange paint I was talking about and I also replaced the ICM. it seems to be doing MUCH better. No the only problem I have is when I mash the gas it hesitates and almost dies and then it takes off. Where should I start with that. But as far as the initial problem, I think it's fixed. Thanks to everyone for your input.

Treygan

sounds like the accelerator pump in the carb..

Originally Posted by cffisher

sounds like the accelerator pump in the carb..

Would it make a difference which hole I put the linkage into. There's 3 to choose from and I put it in the top. It was in the middle from factory.

Yes, moving it closer to the carb body will increase pump's action. But first, did you make sure the accelerators pump’s nozzles are squirting into the front barrels? There may be debris in the nozzles or the check under the nozzles could be stuck.

When you disconnect it from where you have it press down on the pump and make sure you have a good squirt of gas from the discharge tubes and then out it back in the middle. Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak as it will bog on hard acceleration because of low vacuum to the secondaries.

Ok guys I will check that stuff when I get up tomorrow. I have another question as well. I'm new to all this so I probably will have a lot more before I will be able to help any of you. But anyways, I can go out first thing in the morning, turn the key on push the gas down once and then turn the key over and it fires right up. Once I drive it though and shut it off, unless it completely cools down, it has to crank over FOREVER before it will start. What would be the cause of this and how can I fix it? Thanks in advance.

there are lots of things that cause that..running rich flooding the plugs.advanced spark.choke not working properly. not being there its hard to guess.

I'd question the float level, and maybe also the need for an insulating spacer (phenolic) beneath the carb to keep it from soaking heat from the intake. If your float level is too high the residual heat in the engine can heat up the fuel in the bowl, expand it and cause it to dribble into the intake giving you a flooded condition. If you let it sit long enough to cool down that fuel has time to evaporate, and it starts better. Another thought, you've not mentioned what type of fuel pump you're running, but if you're running an electric pump without a regulator you might be on the ragged edge of too much pressure, and when you shut down the fuel line pressure goes up with residual heat, pushing past the needle & seat, flooding your bowls and overflowing into the bores. Just a couple of options to consider.