Love the truck, Lance! Good lines and looks like the tin is in great shape. I think you’re headed in the right direction i.e., the 350 engine. I’d have the block bored .030 and all the surfaces squared up. Have your machinist install your cam bearings as well. The cam you’re looking at is probably okay – however, if you’ve read anything here at all you’ll know the pitfalls of flat tappet cams and make sure you follow manufacturer’s break in instructions to the letter!

In my opinion, the only big issue with the 882 head is that the casting quality can be a bit sloppy. There seems to be a lot flash at the intake ports. You can clean them up yourself with a die grinder and carbide bits. Start by placing a gasket on the head and lightly dusting the surface with black spray paint and then matching to the gasket outline. Go slow and vacuum as you grind (use a mask and goggles too!).

There are some who complain about cracking but I have built a lot engines with 882 heads as they’re plentiful in bone yards and just fine for stock or near stock applications. The local yard that I’m most familiar with allows a swap if you have a cracked head, but I’ve yet to have one – maybe I’m lucky. I also wouldn’t worry about press in studs. If your budget allows, you can either pin them or have your machinist tap the holes.

The 305 heads can certainly raise compression, but they will definitely run out of steam early in the RPMs. Reason being is smaller intake runners. Stay with the 882 heads.

Use a Performer RPM manifold and a 650 CFM. As an alternate – I’d rather see a Q-Jet as I think they’re a fantastic carburetor and I love the sound and snap of the big secondaries opening. Go with some good headers – I love ceramic coated Hookers. They look great forever and fit very well. Use a cross over pipe and 2-1/4 inch exhaust to the outside of the truck – dumping exhaust under any vehicle is just bad juju!

I’m assuming you’re running a 350 transmission. The stock converter is probably okay, but your 2:73 will be a problem. If you want any snap at all from dead stop, you’ll need to go taller in the gears. This is an area where you may want to spend a few bucks. Complete hub-to-hub rear ends can be had for $300-$500 at most wrecking yards and on Craig’slist/e-bay. Common rations are 3:42 or 3:73 – either would give you a bit excitement from dead stop. If by chance you have a 700R4 or 4L60 transmission the 3:42 would be my choice.

Have fun and keep us posted!
Glenn