Here’s a re-post of a 383 combination that I know works very well together with “off-the-shelf” parts installed in a properly prepared block. That said, I used a flat tappet cam in this build and if I were to do it today, I’d opt for a roller. I like the looks of the Lunati 270-278 Voodoo (but have not personally used it – others on the site may have firsthand experience with this cam) and they sell a kit with the cam and lifters (Part Number 60111SK).That means your block has to be set up for a roller cam and lifters, but there are a lot of them out there. Rollers are a bit more money up front as well – but with the changes in oil, it’s worth considering as the break in with flat tappet cams is critical and a new cam can be ruined in short order if not done properly.

First and foremost – find a good machine shop where you can talk to the machinist who will be doing the work. The prep on your block is critical. The 383 can be a screamer if built correctly, but heaven help you if clearances are not correct as the whole thing will come apart and you’ll have one very expensive door stop! Make sure that the machinist has built many 383 motors. I know everyone has to learn somewhere – but you don’t want it to be your engine.

Have the block cleaned and tested – no need to build a block that has cracks or cannot be squared. Make sure that the machine shop understands that you’ll be building a screamer so you want to have the crank journals align bored and the decks cut to 9.003”. Have the machine shop install new cam bearings and new brass freeze plugs. Also have the machinist go over the location of all the galley plugs with you so you know where they are and that they have been properly installed. When you get the block back from the machine shop make sure you really scrub that baby down with hot soapy water. I like Dawn dish washing liquid and water straight from the bottom of the water heater. Put the block on the engine stand and dry with compressed air really well.

Paint the inside of the engine with Glyptal. Its $50 a quart from Eastwood – buy the brush on and a quart will do the job real nice. Also paint the exterior at this time too with some good high temperature block paint. I like VHT brand in the rattle can and have had good success with it over the years and their Chevy orange is spot on for color. Let everything dry real well. If you don’t have heat in your garage, you may want to opt for a small portable unit (with a sealed heating element) to assist in the drying process. I mention sealed heating unit as you never want to promote a flash-fire with a glowing element near any combustible vapors.

Rotating assemblies are really your choice. Eagle makes a kit that includes crank, flexplate, damper, rods, bearings, pistons and rings for $850. (Some here hate the Eagle components and others have had issues with Scat. I’ve used both and not had problems and believe either to be fine if you take your time and measure everything as you go.) Part number from Summit is ESP-B13005E030. It’s probably fine for your application – uses a -7cc flat top and with the deck height recommended above (9.003”) should keep you in the 10-10.5:1 compression ratio with a .041 head gasket. Have your machinist press the pistons and rods together – it’s a bit tricky if you’ve not done it a lot and you need a press.

Use lots of good assembly lube (I like Red Line). Keep your hands really clean and wipe thing as you go (remember I told you to paint the engine? Lot’s easier to keep nice and clean with fresh paint inside and out!)

I like the Milodon lubrication components and have used several variations of their pump. I used to use the 18750 high volume/high pressure pump but have reverted back to the 18756 high volume/standard pressure and it works just fine with a Milodon 30901, 7 quart pan that fits stroker motors. The pan may need a bit of adjustment with Eagle rods. Use Milodon 18756 oil pump with a 18314 pickup. Use Milodon 23050 oil pump drive shaft and 41000 one piece gasket. Milodon 81300 is an oil pan stud bolt kit – worth the $20 for ease of assembly.

Top the engine off with the components listed below:
AFR 1040 195 Street Eliminator heads
Double roller timing set - Summit is fine
Edelbrock 2102 cam and lifter kit
Edelbrock 7104 Performer RPM manifold
Summit 210216 Summit Q-Jet, 750 CFM
Fel-Pro 1205 intake manifold gasket
Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket
HEI Ignition - stock Chevy is a good unit - pair with a MSD ignition

Remember that this is supposed to be fun so stop when you’re tired or if things start to become irksome. Write everything down as you go and you’ll end up with an engine diary for your build. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve references previous builds and you’ll be able to share your experiences with others who ask.

Let us know when you start the build so we can share in your project!
Glenn