Thread: Please help I am racking my brain on this one.

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Also, are you certain the studs aren't pulling out? I had that problem once.

Stock studs can't handle a big cam.

Personally I don't like the "..turn the pushrod until you feel resistance" method as "resistance" is too hard to repeat valve to valve and is almost certainly past zero lash. I prefer to ensure that both valves are closed with lifters obviously loose, then lift the pushrods up & down (or lift the pushrod end of the rocker, same deal). As soon as the slack is gone you're at zero lash, then adjust the nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn and you're done. I use 1/2 turn tighter for stock engines, but only 1/4 turn if it's any degree of performance engine.

Well I got all new lifters and since the cam is already past its break in stage I am going to soak them in oil for the night and replace them all in the morning. The problem I had with loosening them until it rattled and then tightening it back down is that there are so many of them ticking that it was extremely difficult to rule out if the ratteling one was from the one being adjusted or one of the others on the same side and there are a few on each side. And since this is still fairly fresh I am going to replace them and start over on the adjustments.

I had a dickens of a time adjusting in the valves on my 318 with roller rockers.

What finally worked for me was adjusting both arms on each cylinder on firing order..

You can find the thread in the mopar small block section.

Got the intake off and found that I had 7 bent pushrods and 7 bad lifters good thing I went ahead pulled the intake.

You had the valve lash too tight, tighten them hot while it's running.

Originally Posted by aahx2011

I have run it and adjusted the lifters a couple of times now and still sounds awful.

That's because you've been suckered into buying one of those fosdick, *&%$^%^&^^% piece of !#@$ Extreme Energy pile of steaming dog poo camshafts. It's always gonna be noisy as H%@# all the time it's in the motor and it will fail prematurely. The engineers who concocted this garbage design should be chained to a pole and caned.

Here, maybe this will help you in your valve adjustments later on when you do another motor.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...stment_SBC/BBC

OK, I'll explain.
Many years ago, Harvey Crane of Crane Cams postulated the idea of "hydraulic intensity". This is the work that a lobe does in lifting the lifter off the base circle of the cam to the nose of the cam. You can grind a cam lobe design that will do this work rather easily, as with some of the factory grinds, or you can ask the lobe to lift the lifter quickly, as in the Extreme grinds. Harvey ground most of his cams on a hydraulic intensity of 62 for years and years.

The amount of work that the lobe is asked to do can be seen by subtracting the 0.050" duration from the 0.006" (advertised) duration. A 300/230 cam would have a hydraulic intensity of 70 and would be very easy on all the associated parts. A 300/260 cam would have a hydraulic intensity of 40 and would be asking the lobe to yank the valve open and slam the valve back down quickly. Of course, the valve isn't slammed down onto it's seat, but it is made to unseat and seat itself very quickly and is therefore required to do more work than its lower intensity brethren. This larger "window" of valve open time makes more horsepower because the valve is open longer than it would be with a slower-opening/closing lobe. I have done multiple Dyno-Sims on these cams in relation to slower lobe cams and I can find only about 10 hp on a 400 hp build.

This Extreme design is a competition design, where you might be interested in making another 10 hp so you could drive around the guy who has been running ahead of you forever. The design itself requires that the builder does everything right on the build and then does frequent inspections on the install throughout the racing life of the motor. THIS LOBE DESIGN HAS NO BUSINESS IN A STREET MOTOR.

"If nothing else leads to its downfall, a profile ground on a good core can have a hydraulic intensity of 50° - 55° and be a pretty safe bet in terms of reliability."
David Vizard


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Thanks for the link, I do just have a couple of more questions for you the link stated to tighten 1/8 of a turn after the slack was taken out, and I am willing to do that no problem just don't understand why it is I see so many different references to how much of a turn after the slack is taken out I have now seen 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1 full turn. I feel that each of these have their own use and that goes with the what the motor is being built for and you seem to know your stuff would you please enlighten me as to the purpose of so many different possibilities. 2nd question is the dislike for the cam I chose specific to the cam and would be for any company that makes one like or is it for Comp Cams? This is my first small motor build in ten years as I have been working on Detroit, Cummins, and Caterpillar engines for the past few years and have gotten out of the small engine parts circle so far that when I did this one I wanted to try a new part out and see how it went before I started my hi performance motor. Any input is always appreciated.

Instead of dealing with unknowns, how about you post the details from the cam card for your Comp Cams Extreme 4x4 stick, and Tech can explain any problems as they relate to the earlier Crane Extreme grinds? It may be that any cam labeled "Extreme" is problematic? I don't know that for a fact....

You see so many different amounts to tighten them because THEY READ IT ON THE INTERNET----------


And the internet is always correct------------


You need to realize that there are different ratio rocker arms with different thread pitch on the adjuster screw or rocker stud-sooooooooooo---with an adjusting screw/nut at the pushrod end of the rocker you will be moving the adjustment exactly the amount of the thread pitchdivided by degree of rotation-on a rocker arm that adjusts at the pivot-you have to deal with not only the amount of thread distance used but also multiply by the rocker ratio--


With most rocker studs being either 3/8x24 or 7/16x20 you can see that there is difference of .009 between a full turn and(7/16x20 gives you .050 for a full turn) then if you multiply by the rocker ratio it can get out of hand quickly-----------( 1.7 rockerratio x .050 =.085 at the lifter-----------


Most people that are doing this simply over do it one way then the other then back then forth resulting in a complete kaous and as Clint Eastwood in HeartBreak Ridge would say--CLUSTERFLOP----------

Jerry,
Everything you say is true, but I'm pretty sure that aahx2011 has told us he has stock cast iron heads and OEM stamped steel rocker arms which means he's at 1.5:1 (or maybe 1.52:1?) ratio with 3/8 24 pressed in studs. The hydraulic lifters by design are running on a cushion of oil, so the difference of 1/4 turn on the nut is not really that critical on this street/play engine, as long as it's not too tight.

Aahx2011, since you're running a non-stock cam, if you were at my shop we'd install a full set of good quality pushrods, install the rockers, pull the plugs and get #1 to TDC compression and tighten the adjusting nut until the slack is just out of the pushrod to rocker interface (no click if you lift the rocker up & down), then go 1/4 turn which is going to be 1/4 x 0.042" or just a bit over ten thousandths past zero lash. Then we'd turn the engine 1/4 revolution with a breaker bar on the dampner bolt, and do the next one in the firing order, until you're done. If you want to start with 1/8", or closer to five thousandths you might be OK, but then you might be pulling the covers to snug them that extra 1/8 turn if they're slightly loose. If you were running a stock cam I'd tell you to go closer to 1/2 turn, as the valve action is slower compared to your Comp Cams stick. Just my $0.02.

Another common thing overlooked is that people when they put a socket on the adjusting nut--the socket can push down on the ball taking up the slack in the rocker arm/pushrod/lifter while still having space between the nut and the rocker ball------------

Just wanted to let everyone know that I got the new lifters and push rods in today, and I adjusted everything as per the link that techinspector1 gave and I went a 1/4 turn after all the slack was out of the push rods. The 1/4 was not enough after I got it started and I just added another 1/4 to each one, and everything went perfect. Installed the valve covers and everything was all quiet. I just have one small oil leak from the oil line to the gauge and that is just a small brass fitting that needs replaced.

Good deal! Much better to be 1/4 turn light than 1/4 turn too heavy. Glad it's right!!

Congrats on sticking with it and reaching a positive conclusion. Thanks for reporting back too, it's always nice to know the final outcome.