Thread: Newby Chevy Builder: 2000 5.7L 350 V8 Build.

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Let me start off by saying I am brand new to the forum and fairly new to building motors and becoming a gear head. I just want to go fast!

Here is the scenario: I was given a 2000 5.7L V8 Vortech 350 out of a Chevy Dually. The motor was running when it was pulled, has about 200,00 km on it, sat for about a year after being pulled, was given to me. Currently I am working on the tare down and stripping everything off the block to get it ready to build.

Now the plan for the home of the motor is unclear so far. I do not have a "project vehicle" yet, although I do drive a 2003 GMC 1500 that it could slide into.... That's my daily driver, no towing, needs to handle 5 hour highway drives if it goes in there. My initial ambitions are to build a small truck like an S-10 or a Sonoma, but I'm still fairly undecided. I know having a well thought out plan is the best case but I would like to get me feet wet with this motor before I go much further.

I have a working knowledge about most things regarding motors and such but I am no expert, that's for sure, so the more simple terms, the better. I am willing to learn though.

My initial research has found that a cam and a crank change is almost a necessity, along with changing the pistons and potentially lifters and valve springs to get the right compression ratio. Along with an intake manifold and maybe a new set of heads (the L31 Votech heads sound fine though?) I'll need a set of headers too.

Now the issue of prices comes into play. I know I cannot be cheap to get a quality motor but I cannot afford to break the bank right now. I am looking to be all in for about $5000 for the motor build. I do not want to do the 400HP for $2500 approach. I would also like to avoid taking the block or the factory heads to a machinist. I have almost all the tools to do whatever at home, except re-boring and other major changes like that.

What am I looking to accomplish? I just want something that's fast and loud. Lots of torque of course. It will not be a racing engine by any means. I have always loved superchargers so I am willing to buck up for a super if that does the trick...

Id love any feedback really! Forums are a great place to get multiple opinions and I welcome them all! I can post pictures if that helps. Id like to get some pretty specific advice too, what goes well with what, item numbers, URL's to website.

Thanks!!

not to be a smart ass but you said you do not know alot but you do not want to spend any money with some one that has a machine shop. you have all the tools but never said what seat and guide machine you have . used 3d cutters or Mira. still cutting with stones? what mill do you have. what is the make. cutting decks wet or dry or with CBM . maybe Carbide? what boring bar do you have .what valve grinder do you have cap cutter . line bore ? deck plates . tru deck. bore tru plates ? engine build tools . lifter bore hone are you using diamond hone ?. hone for wrist .pin and big end of the rod .have a way to check size like a AG300 or aP310 or ga212 or ga2125 or gr2241 what about micrometers .tools for checking rod twists. hot tank ? jetwasher? crank polisher. crack checking equipment ?you state license with the state for wast ? to have wast moved off site ? evey one starts out taking small steps i bet you do not have half the machines and tools you think you have. when it come to machine work and head work you going to buy alot of machines that only do one thing the hand drill in my shop has more versatilty then may of the machines i have . but the drill can machine a block

Well avoiding a machine shop was along the lines of avoiding doing mill work just for the sake of not doing mill work. Now, your not wrong about your reply, but can it be done without taking pieces to be machinist?

I would take some time and not even tear it down until you know what the total end result will be. You can spend a lot of time and money redoing things because of changes. Blower for instance, vehicle weight, gears, you have to build the foundation on the bottom end. But you should before you start have a menu to go by. And Pat is right, A good machinist will be your best friend if he knows hot rods.

Originally Posted by ehalldor

Well avoiding a machine shop was along the lines of avoiding doing mill work just for the sake of not doing mill work. Now, your not wrong about your reply, but can it be done without taking pieces to be machinist?

well a new engine is green casting they move around till aged then it can start with a good base . as this is a Gm block . most all Gm block have a very bad deck finish and many time not close to square first thing i do less you have a low miles bores will need to go over size most all the time 030 cleans a old out of shape bore .now then theres the heads and work here to if there not crack. many guys think i hone the walls with a poor hone job and then lap in the valves . many newer engine go for many more miles then good old day s .by the time you get them for a hot rod you will find most all the time they will need intake valves .they will need ex guides . will need to be bore.i most all the time rebuild the rods with a up grade on rod bolts . i would say a better block only would need what i posted .many times they need more then what i posted